THE HOME COOK : The Woman Who Could Smell Salt

Some people can magically lift an ordinary recipe to memorable heights. Back in the ‘70s, when I was teaching lots of cooking classes, I had a young assistant named Martha Ann, whose sense of taste and smell were remarkable. While stirring some soup in a pot she would occasionally say, “I smell too much salt,” and she would be right.

Once we gave a party for James Beard. The food was simple--Minestrone Soup, homemade bread and a wonderful Raised Cheesecake--but the party was a big one and the only kitchen that was available was rather small. Somehow, in those cramped quarters, stirring mega-amounts of soup in giant caldrons, we had trouble bringing the rich, full flavors together.

That is, until Martha Ann arrived. She didn’t chant incantations or add secret potions. She just put in herbs, tasted the soup and added some more onion and chard, and in a few minutes we had three-star minestrone. Every bit of soup was served that night, to oohs and ahs. The following recipe is the one Martha Ann made.

Cheesecake is not among my top 10 desserts. Most cheesecakes are too dense and heavy to me, and they often have either too much or not enough sugar--you seem to be eating a solid block of cream cheese. But the cheesecake we served the night of the Beard party was worlds apart. As light as a mousse and rich with all the creamy dairy ingredients, it is a perfect foil to the minestrone soup.

It also freezes well, as does the soup. This is how “no fuss” food becomes party fare. Simple can succeed--sometimes better than fancy.

MINESTRONE SOUP

1 1/2 cups Great Northern white beans

3 quarts water

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 pound salt pork, finely diced

1/3 cup finely chopped parsley

2 large onions, finely chopped

Leaves from 3 stalks celery, finely chopped

1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

4 tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and diced

3 stalks celery, diced

4 cups beef broth

2 cups chopped cabbage

2 cups chopped zucchini

4 Swiss chard leaves, sliced

2 cups grated Parmesan cheese

Soak beans overnight in water to cover. Drain and place in large soup or stock pot. Cover with 3 quarts water and add salt. Simmer until tender, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Cool slightly, then puree beans and cooking liquid in blender or food processor.

Heat olive oil in large soup or stock pot over medium heat, taking care that oil does not scorch. Add salt pork, parsley, onions, celery leaves and thyme. Cook, stirring constantly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, carrots, celery, beef broth and bean puree. Cover and simmer gently 15 minutes. Add cabbage, zucchini and Swiss chard. Add more broth if necessary. Simmer another 20 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve with Parmesan cheese. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

221 calories; 1,145 mg sodium; 21 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 1.6 grams fiber; 54% calories from fat.

RAISED CHEESECAKE

1 cup flour

1/4 pound butter, softened

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons sugar

Cheese Filling

Combine flour and butter in bowl and blend well. Stir in egg yolk and sugar. Press 1/2 pastry into bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Remove rim of springform pan. Bake bottom at 400 degrees 3 minutes and cool.

Fit rim of springform pan back onto bottom, then press remaining pastry all around inside of rim about halfway up. (Don’t worry if height is not even.) Lower oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Pour Cheese Filling into pan. Bake 45 minutes. Cool to room temperature and serve. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

315 calories; 262 mg sodium; 157 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0 fiber; 67% calories from fat.

Cheese Filling

1 pound cream cheese, softened

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 cup sugar

4 eggs, separated

1/4 cup heavy whipping cream

1/4 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/4 teaspoon salt

Cream cheese until fluffy. Add flour and sugar and mix well. Add egg yolks, whipping cream, sour cream and vanilla and beat well. Beat egg whites with salt until stiff but not dry. Fold egg whites into cheese mixture.