Wholesome Cloth : A Ventura mail-order fabric store offers undyed, nontoxic, natural cotton materials for the ‘chemically sensitive.’

Environmental health was not on interior decorator De Anne Roof’s mind when she opened Homespun 10’ Wide Fabrics & Draperies in Ventura six years ago. Her company sells natural cotton pillows, bedspreads, draperies, upholstery, wall coverings and tablecloths. Soon after she opened, she said, customers started contacting her from all over the country.

“When you’re diagnosed chemically sensitive,” Roof said, “you either pay for redecorating or pay more doctor’s bills.”

She has recently outgrown her McGrath Street location--essentially a showroom for a mail-order operation--and will move nearby to larger quarters within the next two months.

People who are used to buying their curtains ready made from the department store, may find Roof’s goods a little pricey. But if they are used to dealing with decorators, they won’t.

“My prices are extremely low and beat the cost of regular redecorating with all that toxic stuff,” she said.

Word of mouth among decorators and people with allergies as well as small ads in national magazines, plus a favorable review in the book “Nontoxic, Natural and Earthwise” by Debra Lynn Dadd, built Roof’s business. “Neutral-colored and interestingly textured cotton fabric in 10-foot widths” is how Dadd characterized Roof’s materials.

Roof isn’t the only mail-order source for natural, nontoxic interior decorating stuff. The Cotton Place in Dallas was started 16 years ago by a hospital technician who had trouble filling a doctor’s order for 100% natural cotton blankets. Even today hospital linens are laced with formaldehyde, waterproofing, dyes and other irritants.

Doctors treating environmentally related diseases “prescribe” from natural cotton catalogues. The Cotton Place also carries clothing for adults, kids and infants, including undergarments, hosiery and footwear.

Both Homespun and The Cotton Place suggest you call for a catalogue and swatches of cloth--there is a small charge.

“People love the feel of the fabric,” Roof said. “It sells itself. And feels better and better with each washing.” Yes, she’s talking about throwing the drapes in the washing machine. “You take them out a little damp and hang them to dry . . . with cotton you never have dry-cleaning bills and fumes.”

In the last few months all three major cotton mills--J. P. Stevens, Fieldcrest Cannon and Wamsutta/Pacific--have begun manufacturing and shipping undyed, nontoxic, natural cotton bed and bath fabrics to major local retailers. Stevens’ spokeswoman Rose Gerace estimates that their “Simply Cotton” line will constitute 22% of their sales in the near future.

“People are buying better quality products as an investment,” said Gerace. “When money is tight, people buy goods once and hold on to them.” Sheets and towels free of all chemicals, additives, dyes and bleaches (or “opticals,” as they are known in the industry) tend to last longer, unless of course you put the chemicals back into them by bleaching or dry-cleaning them.

A Wamsutta statement echoed this: “Natural cotton takes on a shade of ivory and through washing and use becomes increasingly whiter and softer.”

Use biodegradable soap, folks.

It is not just health and thrift we are talking about here, but fashion. Undyed, natural cotton clothes are now a Levi Strauss fashion option. And Esprit is next. Eco-chic for people who don’t have to go the whole “natural” route for health reasons.

BUYING NATURAL

Here’s where to find 100% cotton goods in Ventura County:

* For slipcovers, upholstery, wall coverings, bedspreads, pillows and tablecloths: call first and then visit Homespun 10’ Wide Fabrics & Draperies, 642-8111.

* For sheets and towels: Robinson’s carries J. P. Stevens’ line “Simply Cotton” in the Utica brand. Strouds carries Wamsutta/Pacific’s “Superscale” sheets and Price Club has Fieldcrest Cannon’s “Monticello” line.

* If you or your family are “chemically sensitive,” read “Nontoxic, Natural and Earthwise” by Debra Lynn Dadd ($12.95). Available at Ventura bookstores.

* Additional selections: for bedding, clothing, yardage and yarn by mail-order, The Cotton Place, (800) 451-8866.