THE WINE LIST

Ken Frank knows wine as well as any other Los Angeles restaurateur, and his wine list has a few happy surprises that marry wonderfully with the food.

For instance, try the 1990 Sancerre Clos des Orfeuilles, $30, with the potato and caviar. Or 1985 Carmignano from Capezzana, $32, with the pasta. And neither is unfairly priced for the quality.

But finding wines like these on your own isn’t easy. If you know wine or are adventurous, there are some hidden gems. But other wines are surprisingly overpriced.

If you have heard of the greatness of Solaia from Antinori, you might be tempted to pay the $120 charged here. I feel this wine should be no more than $90. I also think $80 is far more than anyone should pay for 1983 Dominus, an awkward, hard-as-rock wine with little charm. On the other hand, the similarly styled 1987 Lyeth red is a bargain at $34.

The buy among the white wines is 1989 Honig Sauvignon Blanc, $18. In reds, it is 1989 Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir, $28.

Imported finds include 1989 Trimbach Gewurztraminer, $19; 1989 Domaine de la Batardiere Muscadet, $19; 1988 Capezzana Chianti Montalbano, $16; 1986 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera, $32, and 1985 Atinori Chianti Classico Riserva, $36.

Six wines are offered by the glass, priced between $4 and $8. Frank also offers a range of vintage ports by the glass. Corkage is $10 a bottle, and the service is excellent.