Serenity. It’s an elusive prize. As the...

Serenity. It’s an elusive prize. As the world becomes more crowded, the path narrows. On occasion I’ve discovered my own particular place in the sun. There was Hawaii--before the jet age. And French Polynesia, years ago. And after this, Zihuatanejo, the once-laid-back Mexican village.

The other day I was reminiscing about another discovery--Spanish Wells in the Bahamas--and wondering: Had it changed too? And so I called Treffor Davies, the general manager of Spanish Wells Beach Resort and he laughed, reassuring me all was well. “It’s the same,” he said. “Just the same.” Still no Pizza Huts. No fancy high-rise hotels or golf courses. No sightseeing buses to foul the air. Not even a single rental car on the entire island. (Either you walk or ride a bicycle.) This isn’t to say that Spanish Wells is one of those irresistible picture-postcard spots. It isn’t, simply because there is nothing to do--unless one fishes or enjoys swimming and sunbathing. Other than that, Spanish Wells is out of touch with the world. The vacationer searching for the merry-go-round would find Spanish Wells an utter bore.

Rather than reaching out for big-time tourism, islanders are satisfied with the slow lane and near-deserted beaches. To get a fix on Spanish Wells, it is a 10-minute flight from the island of Eleuthera. Or five hours by freighter from Nassau, which, when I was in Spanish Wells before, included a soft drink, a sandwich and a world of untroubled waters.

Arriving at Spanish Wells, vacationers sense a haunting stillness. As islands go, it isn’t particularly attractive. This is a coral island, and so there are no mountains, no jungles. If one is seeking peace, though, Spanish Wells might do. Islanders never bother locking their doors. They leave keys in the ignition of their cars. And with a 15-m.p.h. speed limit, no one is in a hurry. Besides, why hurry? Well, maybe to go fishing. The waters of Spanish Wells are among the richest fishing waters in the world. And scuba divers explore a graveyard of shipwrecks. One 250-foot freighter serves as a natural aquarium for schools of grouper, margates, parrotfish, glass-eyed sweepers and angelfish.

Less than two miles long and a quarter-mile wide, Spanish Wells dwells in another time, an outpost divorced from the gravitational pull of civilization’s madness. Quiet streets. New England-style cottages. I intend to return one of these times for another look, and maybe I’ll hang in for a spell.

Accommodations:

--Spanish Wells Beach Club, P.O. Box 31, Spanish Wells, Bahamas, (800) 862-7263. Twenty-one rooms, seven cottages. Rates: $75/$130.

--Spanish Wells Yacht Haven, P.O. Box EL-227, Spanish Wells, Bahamas, (809) 333-4255. Five rooms. Rates: $75/$95. Other details from the Bahamas Tourist Office, 3450 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 208, Los Angeles 90010, (800) 457-8205 or (213) 385-0033.

Musical Europe: It’s called “The Music Lovers Guide to Europe.” A summary of festivals, concerts, opera. Names more than 600 events in countries across the Continent. (Lists addresses of European tourist offices for additional information.) A map with cities in alphabetical order. The guide was researched by graduate students of the Peabody Conservatory in Baltimore, published by John Wiley & Sons. Should be in your bookstore. A big help for music buffs who haven’t the time to check out individual tourist offices for details about Europe’s summer music programs.

Destination Canada: Several years ago, I spent a memorable couple of days at a resort in British Columbia with the poetic name of April Point. By car it’s about four hours north of Victoria. Flights daily (June to September) from Seattle/Vancouver. April Point rises on an island dead center of the river. One of those places you won’t soon forget, and heavenly at sunset. This is another of those places I intend to return to. Rooms at April Point in the high season start at $109 U.S., double occupancy. A deluxe guest house figures out to $350. Prime fishing season is June through September when April Point offers a package featuring deluxe accommodations, three meals, eight hours of fishing (boat, guide, tackle, bait and packing of your catch) for $395 per person, double occupancy, or $250 in May or October with two meals. During May and October, a four-hour fishing package costs $175 a day with two meals. Or there’s a beachcomber package with meals/accommodations for $85 per person, double occupancy. April Point is a family-operated resort. Divorced from our stressful world. The word is that the coho fishing is tops this year.

April Point, P.O. Box 1, Campbell River, B.C. V9W 4Z9, (604) 285-2222.

More on Canada: For details on other B.C. fishing lodges/destinations, obtain copies of the British Columbia Outdoor & Vacation Guide by calling (800) 663-6000. Information on river rafting, trail rides, parks, adventure/fishing resorts, canoeing/kayaking, hiking, bicycling, windsurfing, health/guest ranches, helicopter trips. Dozens of lodges are accessible only by float plane. Others are floating lodges built on barges. (Operators anchor in remote bays, pipe in freshwater from mountain streams.) British Columbia has prepared other publications, including B.C.’s “Accommodations Guide,” the “British Columbia Road Map & Parks Guide,” the “Travel Guide,” the “Freshwater Fishing Guide.” Free copies from Tourism British Columbia, Parliament Buildings, Victoria, B.C. V8V 1X4, or by calling the toll-free number above.

Winging It: When I travel I like to wing it. No set schedule. No rush. Move on whenever the mood strikes you. It’s an idea proposed this year by European Car Vacations, Inc. ECV lists thousands of accommodations in its “Go-As-You-Please” program. You make the reservations as you travel. Appeals to self-drive vacationers who don’t give a hoot about hurrying. Accommodations scattered across 28 countries in Europe/Britain. Everything from small country inns to five-star hotels. Maps, planning guides, hotel/inn directories are part of the package. Rates from $42-$59 per person (double occupancy), including breakfast/value-added tax. (With the fluctuation of the dollar, these rates could change.)

For non-adventurous types, ECV offers a “Reserve-Ahead” program. Budget to deluxe digs. Seventy hotels in Paris alone. Forte hotels in Britain, Jolly/Starhotels/Holliday Inns in Italy, Novotel/Sofitel hotels in France. For a list of properties in all 28 countries, contact Carl Caira, European Car Vacations, Inc., 9 Boston St., Suite 10, Lynn, Mass. 01904, (800) 223-6764.

Potpourri: Taxi passes from the Avalon Ferry Terminal in Catalina are part of a package offered by Gull House B&B;, P.O. Box 1381, Avalon 90704, (310) 510-2547. Rates: $125/$135 . . . . An eight-room hotel in Mexico’s popular San Miguel de Allende is getting raves from vacationers. Perched on a hillside (swimming pool, Jacuzzis). La Puertecita Boutique’otel, Santo Domingo 75, San Miguel de Allende, Gto., Mexico 37740. Rates: $104/$167 . . . . Information on apartments/villas in Italy is available from Hometours International, 1170 Broadway, New York 10001 . . . . A booklet titled “Small Bed & Breakfast Inns of Colorado” has been published by Bed & Breakfast Innkeepers of Colorado, 1102 W. Pikes Peak Ave., Colorado Springs, Colo. 80904 . . . . For travelers planning their first trip to Britain, a free guide titled “Britain” is being mailed by the British Tourist Authority, 350 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles 90071, Suite 450, (213) 628-3525

Reader Recommendations

California--Phyllis G. Weiss, Northridge: “Philo Pottery Inn, P.O. Box 166, Philo 95466. In the beautiful Anderson Valley in Mendocino County. Four bedrooms, a cottage. Multi-course gourmet breakfasts. Sherry in the afternoon. Home-baked cookies/tea in the evening. Rates: $75/$92.”

Italy--Dina Rosenthal, Los Angeles: “Hotel Astoria, Lunge Lago, 28049 Stresa, Italy. Faces Lake Maggiore and the sunny southern side of the Alps. Open mid-March until the last week of October. Rates: about $85 for a double.”

Spain--Gary Frolich, Brentwood: “In Madrid, enjoyed restaurant Casa Paco at Puerto Cerrada, 11 El Pastor at Fomento 36, near Plaza Espana.”

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