Eat Your Culture, America

In the last 10 years, American consumption of fermented foods has skyrocketed. Miso, kefir and sourdough bread are but a few of the naturally fermented foods we are devouring with new-found gusto. Of course, none has enjoyed the phenomenal success of America’s favorite cultured milk product, yogurt.

To many Americans, yogurt is a sweetened, flavored snack that comes in cute little cartons and is good to eat if you’re on a diet. The marketing of frozen yogurt has certainly brought the fermented dairy product into the mainstream. But to much of the world, yogurt still means natural yogurt--a sour, custard-like product whose acidity doesn’t always make for love at first bite. But natural yogurt is well worth getting to know, because of its health benefits and versatility in the kitchen.

Yogurt was among the world’s first health foods. It originated in the Near East, where it’s been a staple for more than 5,000 years. The warm climate there made fresh milk difficult to keep, but when it was fermented into yogurt, its life could be prolonged considerably.

The second-Century Greek physician Galen lauded yogurt’s “soothing and purifying effects on the intestinal tract.” In the early 1500s, a Turkish doctor used goat’s-milk yogurt to cure a digestive malady in King Francois I of France.

At the turn of the century, French bacteriologist and Nobel laureate Dr. Ilya Metchnikoff investigated yogurt’s role in the remarkable longevity of villagers in Bulgaria and the Caucasus Mountains. Metchnikoff hypothesized that lactobacilli in the yogurt purged harmful bacteria from the intestines. Although his theory has fallen out of favor, Metchnikoff remains a giant in yogurt history. He was the first person to identify the specific bacterium responsible for transforming milk into yogurt, paving the way for its commercial manufacture.

Yogurt is easier to digest than unfermented dairy products. That’s because the cultures in the yogurt predigest the sugars and proteins in the milk. According to Sonia Uvezian, author of “The Book of Yogurt” (101 Productions), the body assimilates 90% of a serving of yogurt in less than an hour, compared with only 30% of an equal portion of milk.

When made from skim milk, yogurt is high only in calcium and protein but low in calories, cholesterol and fat. An 8-ounce serving of nonfat yogurt, for example, contains 110 calories--a quarter of the calories found in an equal amount of cream cheese and a tenth found in butter, margarine and mayonnaise. And the cultures in yogurt may actually help lower blood cholesterol levels by assimilating fats before they can be absorbed into the human body.

The versatility of yogurt is evidenced by the major role it plays in the cuisines of the Balkans, North Africa, the Middle East, India and even Mongolia and western China. Mixed with diced cucumber, fresh mint and garlic, it becomes a refreshing salad known throughout much of this area--in Turkish it’s called jajik . Seasoned with lemon juice, ginger, garlic and spices, it becomes a marinade for Indian tandoori . Drained in a cheese-cloth-lined strainer, it acquires the silky consistency of cream cheese.

Yogurt is easy and inexpensive to make at home. You need only two ingredients: milk and starter (fresh yogurt). Bring 1 quart milk (I use skim milk) to a boil, stirring well. (This kills any undesirable strains of bacteria.) Let it cool to about 112 degrees, then stir in 2 tablespoons fresh yogurt or commercial starter. Place the mixture in a warm spot (a yogurt maker, an oven with a pilot light, a thermos or even an ice chest warmed with a bowl of hot water). In four to six hours, the mixture will have the characteristic tartness and thickness of yogurt. Refrigerate it until ready to use.

To make yogurt “cheese,” simply stir up 2 to 4 cups nonfat yogurt and pour in a yogurt funnel (a fine meshed strainer) or cheese-cloth-lined colander over a bowl for eight to 12 hours. The whey will drain off, leaving a creamy, snow-white product reminiscent of a tart cream cheese. (There will be half as much “cheese” as yogurt.) The longer it drains, the firmer the texture. Add sugar, grated lemon peel and vanilla (or orange liqueur) to make a delicious alternative to whipped cream. Nonfat yogurt “cheese” can also be used in cheesecake.

Yogurt “cheese” makes a great base for dips. Add garlic, herbs, lemon juice and olive oil to create a dip with a Mediterranean accent. Garlic, ginger, green onions, sesame oil and soy sauce lend an Asian touch, while garlic, chiles, lime juice and cilantro evoke the flavors of the American Southwest. Or add salt, chopped green onions and pimientos to yogurt cheese to make a low-fat spread for bagels.

One of the most interesting yogurt creations is lassi , an Indian drink that’s as refreshing as it is nutritious. Lassi is India’s splendid answer to the North American milkshake. It’s an ideal drink to serve with hot and spicy food. Contrary to popular belief, dairy products are much more effective than beer at extinguishing chile hellfire. There are several ways to make lassi : Some versions are salted; this one is sweetened. Rose water can be found at Middle Eastern and Indian markets. If unavailable, use a perfumed liqueur, such as Cointreau or Triple Sec.

SWEET LASSI

1 cup nonfat yogurt

2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste

1 teaspoon rose water, or to taste

5 ice cubes

1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

Place yogurt, sugar, rose water and ice cubes in blender container and blend until smooth. Adjust flavoring, adding sugar and rose water to taste. Pour Lassi into tall glass and sprinkle lightly with cardamom. Makes 1 serving.