Dinner With the Kernel

You can tell a lot about an ear of corn by breaking off a kernel and tasting it. What you want is a sweet flavor and a tender texture. Of course, if this sort of public taste test is embarrassing to you, simply buy a single ear of corn before committing yourself to a larger purchase. It’s good insurance. This is especially important at a farmers’ market, where you may find several corn stands selling produce of varying quality.

To pick out the freshest corn, look at it. Are the husks bright green, with a snug fit? Is the silk golden brown and shiny? Do the kernels seem plump, moist and a little translucent? These are signs of freshness.

Some corn fanatics believe that corn should be picked just as the water is boiling on the stove, quickly shucked and popped into the pot within minutes of its harvest. For most of us, reality dictates that there be some time lapse between the harvest and the cooking.

If it’s not possible to cook your corn immediately, be sure to refrigerate it. Don’t strip off the husks until just before you cook the corn.

If you are boiling corn, add a little sugar and cook for just a few minutes. If you are grilling it, soak the corn, with the husk on, before putting it on the fire.

You can also serve corn uncooked. If munching it right off the cob seems too barbaric, cut the kernels off the cob. There are several ways to use raw kernels: as a summer corn salad with onion, tomatoes and peppers with fresh herb dressing; as one of the ingredients in potato, pasta or mixed green salads; as a garnish for cold or hot soups; mixed into sandwich spreads; stirred into muffins, breads, pilafs or polentas ; or made into corn salsa with corn, green onions, lime juice and cilantro.

The following recipes are all slightly more complicated. The sweet Corn Flan With Onion and Bacon, inspired by flavorful French vegetable flan, can be cooked ahead and reheated. The State Fair Corn Relish, a staple condiment in the Midwest, is great as a side dish or on sandwiches. The Quesadillas With Corn, Cheese and Tomatoes might be the first thing you’ll want to make when you come home from the market with perfect corn.

If whole ears of corn seem too difficult for a dinner party, try this flan. Unlike its French counterparts, there’s very little custard, just enough to hold the corn and onions together. Superior-quality bacon is important for this dish.

CORN FLAN WITH ONION AND BACON

1 tablespoon butter

1 large sweet onion, minced

1 tablespoon water

2 2/3 cups fresh corn kernels (about 4 large ears)

2 large eggs

1/3 cup milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground pepper

2 thick slices apple-wood smoked bacon, cooked crisp, crumbled

Heat butter in 10-inch non-stick skillet over high heat. Add onion and saute 1 minute, stirring often. Add water and continue cooking until slightly tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in corn.

Whisk eggs in 3-quart bowl until frothy. Add milk, salt, nutmeg and season to taste with pepper. Stir in corn mixture. Transfer to greased shallow (4- to 5-cup) baking dish. Garnish with bacon. Bake at 325 degrees in center rack of oven until custard is set in middle, about 40 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight. Reheat 30 minutes, covered with foil, at 300 degrees. Or reheat in microwave oven on MEDIUM power (50%), covered with wax paper, until hot.

Each serving contains about:

187 calories; 249 mg sodium; 85 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.6 gram fiber.

This is perfect for a late breakfast straight from the market. It’s hardly a recipe, and many variations can be made. Be sure to place the corn mixture right on the cheese so it won’t spill out when bitten into.

QUESADILLAS WITH CORN, CHEESE AND TOMATOES

2/3 cup fresh corn kernels (about 1 large ear)

1 teaspoon water

2 large green onions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons cilantro leaves

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon salt

Crushed hot red pepper

4 (7-inch) flour tortillas

1 (8-ounce) package Colby cheese, cut in slices

6 thin slices tomato

2 teaspoons oil

Tomato salsa, optional

Combine corn, water, green onions, cilantro leaves, cumin, salt and crushed red pepper in small bowl.

Cover 2 tortillas with single layer cheese slices, patching cheese together as necessary. Spread 1/2 corn mixture over cheese. Cover with remaining cheese slices, then tomato slices in single layer. Top with 2 remaining tortillas.

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium heat. When hot, use spatula to transfer quesadilla to pan. Cook, covered, until bottom is browned, about 3 minutes. Lightly compress quesadilla with spatula. Carefully turn. Cover. Brown other side, about 3 minutes more.

Quesadilla can be kept warm in 200-degree oven while another is cooked with remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Let rest few minutes before cutting into wedges with kitchen shears. Serve with salsa. Makes 2 (7-inch) quesadillas, or 4 appetizer servings.

Each appetizer serving contains about:

340 calories; 577 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.32 gram fiber.

This relish is a wonderful summer harvest recipe; it can be as spicy as you want, a welcome condiment in the winter cupboard. It’s great with hot dogs and hamburgers. If canning is not your thing, the relish can be kept up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. It’s best to let the relish mellow for a day before serving.

STATE FAIR CORN RELISH

2 cups cider vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3/4 cup light-brown sugar, packed

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

2 teaspoons mustard seeds

2 teaspoons celery seeds

1 tablespoon salt

1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper

4 1/2 cups fresh corn kernels (about 7 large ears)

2 cups sliced cabbage

2 cups chopped onion

1 cup diced celery

1 sweet red pepper, diced

Combine vinegar, lemon juice, brown sugar, granulated sugar, dry mustard, mustard seeds, celery seeds, salt and crushed red pepper in 3-quart non-aluminum pot. Bring to boil.

Add corn, cabbage, onion, celery and red pepper to boiling liquid. Simmer, covered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover and simmer to reduce liquid, about 10 minutes more.

Using slotted spoon, pack hot relish into sterilized jars, leaving 3/4-inch space at top. Add hot liquid to cover relish. Seal. Process in hot water bath 15 minutes. Or alternately, let relish cool and refrigerate up to 2 weeks in airtight container. Makes 7 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about:

14 calories; 66 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.08 gram fiber.