STYLE : FALL BEAUTY REPORT : BEYOND THE PALE : Four of the Season’s Best Looks

Call it the cosmetics of inclusion. As George Bush and Bill Clinton wave the red, white and blue, fall makeup has moved beyond neutral territory and taken a decisive stand on rich, saturated color. The “nude” look remains popular among many women, but now it represents only one of several options. The latest shadows, blushes and lipsticks--formulated with more pigment than ever--offer increased drama, flattering faces of every skin tone.

“Women are bored with the natural or nude look,” says Guy Lento, national makeup director for Chanel. “After all, it can mean so many things to so many people. A woman should determine what’s best for her by coordinating and balancing her look with what she’s wearing, which changes from day to day.” Prescriptives’ Marianne Diorio agrees: “We saw neutrals so long that now women are looking for, and demanding, colors that surprise the eye.”

As fashion goes, so goes makeup. New cosmetics reflect the vivid, jewel-like shades of silks and knits, as well as the warm, earthy hues of tweeds and suedes. Together, inky blues and greens, brilliant purples and pinks, and burnished oranges and reds have superseded the antiquated notion of one season, one palette. This expanded spectrum embraces a multitude of looks--four of which are highlighted here--to suit women’s wardrobes, moods and activities. This year, women of all complexions are saying goodby to the status quo.