Cook My Cabbage, Please

A lot of people like cabbage raw. Slaws depend on it.

But as a cooked vegetable, cabbage is much maligned. Many have memories of cabbage cooking forever on mom’s stove, emitting strong, unpleasant odors. This doesn’t have to be the case. Rarely do I cook cabbage for a long time and it’s always sweet and succulent, never strong or overwhelming. It’s one of my favorite vegetables to make.

These recipes for Thai-Style Cabbage and Quick-Braised Savoy Cabbage may convince you that you’ve missed out on a good thing. Both are delicious and can be quickly prepared. The Fall Slaw With Red Cabbage, Fennel and Walnut Oil offers a more sophisticated version of coleslaw, an option that works well with heartier fall dining when roast chicken, duck and game might be on the menu.

Be sure to choose firm, tightly packed heads or bunches of cabbages that are also crisp and brightly colored. Chinese cabbages are far more perishable than the others, lasting about a week in the refrigerator drawer, stored in a sealed plastic bag.

Savoy cabbage is a delicious, delicate cabbage. Braised with bacon, white beans and sage it makes a wonderful Sunday night supper with crusty bread. It’s also terrific served with roast duck or lamb for a great fall dinner party. High-quality smoked ham or sausage can be substituted for the bacon.

QUICK-BRAISED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH BACON, WHITE BEANS AND FRESH SAGE

3 thick slices bacon, preferably applewood-smoked

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 small leeks, (remove tough green leaves), split, rinsed, thinly sliced

1 large Savoy cabbage, core removed, thinly sliced

1 cup chicken stock or broth

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 1/4 cups cooked white beans or 1 (15.8-ounce) can white beans, rinsed and drained

1 tablespoon finely julienned fresh sage

1 tablespoon finely julienned snipped chives

Freshly ground pepper

Cook bacon in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, about 3 minutes. Use slotted spoon to set bacon aside. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons fat.

Add garlic and leeks to skillet. Cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add cabbage, chicken stock, white wine and beans. Gently toss to combine. Simmer until cabbage is just beginning to wilt, about 3 minutes. Crumble bacon. Toss cooked mixture with bacon, sage, chives and pepper. Adjust seasoning. Serve immediately. Makes 4 main-course servings.

Each serving contains about:

352 calories; 460 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 4.29 grams fiber.

Combining green-head cabbage with Chinese (Napa) cabbage has its merits: The green cabbage is quickly cooked until it’s sweet and limp, forming a base for the Chinese cabbage leaves that are barely warmed through. This gives the mixture a light, textured quality. The thick, coarse ribs of the Chinese cabbage look like celery and remain crunchy. If you prefer a lighter version, you can eliminate the peanuts although they do add a wonderful finish.

THAI-STYLE CABBAGE

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 (1-inch square) peeled ginger root, minced

1 small sweet onion, chopped

1/2 large green cabbage, coarsely chopped

2 large carrots, scrubbed and chopped

2 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)

1 to 2 teaspoons lime juice

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 medium Chinese cabbage, thinly sliced (keep stems and cabbage leaves separate)

8 medium green onions, thinly sliced

1/3 cup chopped dry roasted peanuts

2 1/2 tablespoons minced cilantro

Heat oil in wok or non-stick 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic, ginger and onion. Warm through, about 30 seconds. Add chopped green cabbage, carrots, fish sauce, 1 teaspoon lime juice, sugar and salt. Toss well to combine. Cook until mixture is hot, about 2 minutes, stirring as necessary.

Add sliced Chinese cabbage stems to hot mixture. Toss to combine. Cook only until hot, about 1 minute. Add sliced Chinese cabbage leaves, green onions, peanuts and cilantro. Toss to combine over heat. Immediately remove from heat to avoid limp cabbage. Add remaining lime juice if needed. Adjust sugar and salt to taste. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

115 calories; 630 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.59 grams fiber.

I prefer slaws made with vinaigrette to be freshly tossed, even those with red cabbage. The taste, color and texture are always superior. For last-minute preparation have the cabbage and fennel sliced and refrigerated and the vinaigrette mixed. It’s important to cut the cabbage and fennel in the thinnest slices. Light-tasting olive oil can be substituted for the walnut oil but the taste will be less interesting.

FALL SLAW WITH RED CABBAGE, FENNEL AND WALNUT OIL

1/2 large red cabbage, cored, thinly sliced

1 large trimmed fennel bulb, cut into thin julienne

Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon, or 3/4 teaspoon dried, optional

Combine cabbage and fennel in large bowl. Cover airtight and refrigerate until ready to toss and serve.

To serve, toss Vinaigrette with cabbage and fennel. Add fresh tarragon. Adjust seasoning, honey and vinegar as needed. Can stand at room temperature up to 1/2 hour before serving. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

110 calories; 216 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber.

Vinaigrette

1 large shallot, minced

3 tablespoons walnut oil

3 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

4 teaspoons honey

1 tablespoon water

1/2 teaspoon salt, about

Coarsely cracked pepper

Combine shallot, walnut oil, vinegar, honey, water, salt and pepper to taste.

Note: Can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Let come to room temperature before using.