Switch to Sweaters

Already rebelling against the menswear look for women? For those occasions when tailored blazers feel too structured, but a slouchy cardigan won’t cut it, a polished sweater with a belt may straddle the fine line between contrived chic and sloppy.

“The cardigan is the No. 1 alternative to a jacket for creating a more comfortable, slightly less casual ‘suited look,’ ” says Leslie Marks, fashion director for Robinson’s stores. “It combines the elements of casual and career to create a signature California look.”

Another reason to consider a cardigan for your fall wardrobe: price. At Robinson’s, for example, price tags range from $50 to $250; jacket prices tend to be higher.

And because cardigans offer a more flexible fit and are able to cross over from work to play with little effort, they are also more versatile than many tailored jackets.

Ironically, this “signature California look” is not being promoted by local designers, but by some of the big New York and European labels.

Ellen Tracy shows a gold cardigan with a faux alligator belt. Anne Klein’s Louis Dell’Olio belts a polo sweater under a red knit cardigan. The Krizia line features a shell-pink smoking jacket-style sweater cinched with a brown leather belt.

Since cardigans and belts aren’t typically sold together, a certain amount of know-how is involved in pulling the look together.

“Belts are the new bracelets for the waist,” says Shauna Stein, owner of a signature boutique in the Beverly Center.

Stein says the pivotal accessory adds zest to in-the-closet jackets as well as new purchases. V-neck, button-front cardigans work best for belting, in styles that are semi-fitted but not skin tight.

There are several criteria to consider when selecting a belt for cinching. Stein recommends two- to three-inch widths as a general rule. (Petites may be able to get away with narrower styles, while tall women may have a little more latitude in terms of width.).

Leather belts embossed with exotic patterns such as alligator are popular, retailers report, but chain belts with charms, locks and coins are also being cinched around fall cardigans.

Two styles that don’t really work: Tie or elastic belts. “They aren’t substantial enough to hold up,” Marks cautions.

The shape of the belt is as important as its material.

Best bets, says Marks, are what she calls contour styles, or those that appear curved when laid flat. Generally, they are narrower at the sides and wider in front and back. This belt shape tends to elongate the waist for a more flattering look.

But even with careful selection, the look is not for everybody.

Some women, such as those who are short-waisted, amply endowed or full in the hips may find the look somewhat difficult to wear.