Diva Sings a Song of Fine Dining

Most of David Wilhelm’s restaurants are populist places--big, loud rooms where customers eat things like Albuquerque sundaes (chili, beans and sour cream) and duck cooked in tequila sauce. But with his newest restaurant, Diva, Wilhelm has gotten serious . . . sort of.

Smaller than most of Wilhelm’s other six restaurants, Diva is still large enough to create a dull roar when filled to capacity, and its high-ceilinged, theatrical environment (a giant baroque-framed mirror allows easy people-watching) discourages hushed tones. Also, some of the dishes have goofy names like “Killer Vegetable Plate.”

But there is fine dining going on here. If the scallop, potato and mushroom strudel reminds you a little too much of the potato roll at Joachim Splichal’s Patina, big deal--the scallops are perfectly cooked and the potato is crisp and delicious. Duck served with wild rice polenta is smoky and good; sauteed shrimp on a bed of mashed potatoes are sweet and tender.

One day recently, the kitchen, headed by chef John Sharpe, turned out a terrific plate of cornmeal-breaded sand dabs on a creamy bed of fresh corn.

Perhaps because it’s set right by the Orange County Performing Arts Center, Diva has a grand piano where dinner music is sometimes played; on Friday nights there’s a deejay and musicians. The place is also open late for post-theater suppers.

Diva, 600 Anton St., South Coast Plaza Tower, Costa Mesa, (714) 754-0600. Pasta and entrees $9 to $19.