THE WINE LIST

Valentino has one of the great wine lists in the world, hundreds of wines long with multiple vintages of both modest and great wines. It looks like a personal collection out of control.

Owner Selvaggio is most proud of the discoveries he has made, notably from Italy. He was one of the first in Los Angeles to offer such great wines as Prunaio, Fattoria Viticcio, the wines of Maurizio Zanella (Ca’ del Bosco) and Montevertine.

Few heard of I Sodi di San Niccolo, a Sangioveto from Castellare, before Selvaggio had it. He is pleased that he has the 1986, 1987 and 1988 at respective prices of $45, $50 and $60.

He also discovered the 1985 Palazzo Altesi from Altesino, $35, another Sangioveto, and Intistieti, a vino da tavola made in Brunello by GianFranco Soldera at his Case Basse estate. Valentino has the 1987 at $65 and the 1988 at $70.

“But we don’t have just high-end wine,” he says, pointing to wines like Dolcetto from Luciano Sandrone. The 1990, a splendid, fruity, rewarding wine, is $25 here.

The best value? Impossible to say. Selvaggio thinks that the 1978 Barbaresco Vigna Paje from the Roagna family is a steal at $35.