Chile Scenes of Winter

It seems to some of us that Diana Kennedy brought chiles to our table a mere 20 years ago. But truth is that Americans have been using chile peppers for a very long time.

In 1854, Miss Eliza Leslie of Philadelphia wrote a lively recipe for chile vinegar in her “Complete Cookery” book: “Take 100 red chiles or capsicums , fresh gathered, cut them into small pieces and infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of the best vinegar, shaking the bottle every day, then strain it.” Philadelphians were clearly not timid. However, Bostonian Fannie Meritt Farmer took a decidedly different view of chiles: Her first cookbook, published in 1896, offers a recipe for a large amount of chili sauce that timidly uses a single pimiento.

I tend to fall more into the Fannie Farmer school of cooking; in my house the use of chiles is relegated to two favorite old recipes. Mexican Chile Bread won a first prize long ago in a yeast contest. One of the best sandwiches you’ll ever eat is made with the bread. Take two slices, top one with Fontina or any mild soft cheese. Spread the other with jalapeno pepper jelly, then put the two slices together. Fry in butter until golden on both sides. Serve warm.

The Green Chile Pie is a great dish for picnics--it’s delicious hot or cold. It requires no crust. The roasted chiles are spread over the bottom of a pie pan and form the receptacle for the filling. It takes six to seven Anaheim chiles to cover the bottom of a nine-inch pie pan.

Roasting peppers is an easy task. Place the chiles on a baking sheet and slide them under the broiler, about three inches from the heat source. Broil, turning from time to time, until blistered and charred on all sides. Immediately put the hot chiles into a plastic food bag and tie closed. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, scrape off the outer skin; it will come off easily. Split the chiles down one side and scrape off the seeds and ribs, which have the concentrated fiery quality.

MEXICAN CHILE BREAD 1/2 cup warm water 2 packages dry yeast 1 cup yellow cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup oil 2 teaspoons salt 1 cup buttermilk 2 eggs 1 1/2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese 3 canned whole green chiles, chopped 4 1/2 cups flour, about

Place warm water in small bowl, sprinkle in yeast, stir and let stand 5 minutes to dissolve.

Combine cornmeal and baking soda in large mixing bowl. Heat oil, salt and buttermilk to lukewarm. Add to cornmeal mixture. Stir in eggs. Beat mixture until smooth. Add cheese and chiles and 2 cups flour. Beat until well mixed. Add 2 more cups flour and mix well.

Turn dough out onto floured board and knead, adding enough flour to make dough manageable. After kneading 1 to 2 minutes, let dough stand 10 minutes. Resume kneading until dough is smooth and elastic. Divide dough in half and place each half in greased 9x5-inch loaf pan. Cover pans loosely with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk (dough will come to top of pan).

Bake at 375 degrees about 40 to 50 minutes, or until loaves are golden. Makes 2 loaves.

Each serving contains about: 269 calories; 399 mg sodium; 38 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.24 gram fiber.

GREEN CHILE PIE 1 teaspoon butter 6 or 7 Anaheim chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, split, or about 10 ounces canned roasted whole green chiles 1 1/4 cups grated Fontina or any mild soft white cheese 4 eggs 2 cups half and half or 1 1/2 cups milk 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper Chopped cilantro

Brush bottom of 9-inch pie pan with butter. Line pan with split chiles so they cover bottom and sides of pan. Sprinkle cheese evenly over bottom.

Lightly whisk eggs until blended. Add half and half, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Pour custard over cheese.

Bake at 425 degrees 15 minutes. Lower heat to 325 degrees and bake 20 to 30 minutes more, or until custard seems set and knife inserted halfway from center comes out clean.

If center trembles slightly, remove pie from oven, as custard will continue to cook (do not overcook). Garnish liberally with cilantro. Serve hot or cold. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie, or 6 serving.

Each serving contains about: 400 calories; 481 mg sodium; 258 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 0.81 gram fiber.