Moncho’s: More Barcelona, Please

When you call Moncho’s de Barcelona to make a reservation, there may be some confusion: “La Sca . . . I mean, Moncho’s de Barcelona.” It’s an understandable mistake; a few weeks ago Moncho’s was La Scala Malibu, and much of the staff remains. Other La Scala remnants: framed celebrity pen-and-ink drawings and the curious way that the restaurant’s wine stock is scattered throughout the place under the dining room’s harsh light.

The menu, though, is new. Mostly, there are tapas , the munching food of Spain, which are usually eaten standing at a bar. Here, you sit in booths and nibble at things like cigalas , small, tender langostines nicely sauteed with garlic; breaded croquettes of shrimp; steamed octopus or mussels; seafood-stuffed cannelloni. There’s also more substantial eating in Moncho’s very good seafood paella and “The Crazy Fidea,” sort of a Catalan seafood paella made with vermicelli instead of rice.

Though there are some good things to eat here, so far the food is pretty hit-or-miss. And the menu is actually fairly generic--owner Moncho Neira runs a well-regarded seafood restaurant in Barcelona, but you don’t get the sense that we’re getting the best that he or his chefs can give. Also, he needs to expand the wine list--there’s only one Spanish red. If we’re lucky, Moncho will take a few risks and introduce us to the kind of Spanish food you can get only in Spain.

* Moncho’s de Barcelona, 3874 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, (310) 456-1979. Tapas $2.75-$12.95, entrees $11-$22.