HOME COOK : Scallop Your Friends . . . Twice

I wish that once a year all chefs in America would serve only the food they like to cook at home.

There are really two basic ways of cooking. One is home-cooking, which is usually simple and easy. The other is restaurant food--more complicated, decorative and made to sell. The idea that no one wants to pay for what they cook at home sometimes drives chefs to dramatize food to the point that over-garnishing and creativity render the food inedible.

Last week I invited several friends to lunch to participate in an experiment. I served scallops two ways--half prepared in a home-cooked style and half prepared in a restaurant style. For the home-cooked version, I sauteed fresh scallops in a little butter and finished them with lemon juice and parsley. I cooked Coquilles St. Jacques a la Provencale, an old American version of French cooking, for the restaurant example. The scallops were cooked with onions, garlic, wine and herbs, then finished with melted Swiss cheese on top.

This little trial didn’t really prove anything because two of us liked the saute and two liked the Provencale dish; you can probably guess which one I voted for. We all agreed that each dish was dramatically different. For those who love the taste of scallops, the saute is the best. For those who love a harmony of soft, blending flavors with the faint suggestion of seafood, the Provencale dish is just the ticket.

If you try the experiment on friends, reward them with a good dessert, maybe this homey date pudding, served warm with whipped cream.

SAUTEED SCALLOPS 1 1/2 pounds scallops 5 tablespoons butter Salt 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon minced parsley

Rinse scallops and pat dry with paper towels. Melt butter in large skillet until it foams. Add scallops. Cook scallops over high heat about 1 minute on each side. Do not let butter burn. Reduce heat, if necessary. Lightly season to taste with salt. Remove scallops to warm platter. Sprinkle with lemon juice and parsley. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 279 calories; 494 mg sodium; 95 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 29 grams protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

COQUILLES ST. JACQUES A LA PROVENCALE 6 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic 1 cup flour Salt, pepper 1 1/2 pounds scallops, cut into 1/4-inch slices 2/3 cup dry white wine 1/4 teaspoon crushed thyme 1 bay leaf 1/3 cup shredded Swiss cheese

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet over medium heat. Add onion, green onions and garlic. Saute about 5 minutes, or until onions are tender, but not browned. Using slotted spoon remove onions and garlic and set aside.

Place flour and salt and pepper to taste on large piece wax paper. Using fork, stir salt and pepper into flour to mix well. Place scallop slices into flour mixture and coat well. Shake off excess flour.

Melt 2 more tablespoons butter in skillet and quickly saute scallops until lightly browned. Lower heat and add wine, thyme, bay leaf and onion mixture. Cover skillet and simmer 5 minutes. Remove scallops with slotted spoon and spread in layer in shallow baking dish (use 10-inch pie plate or 4 large scallop shells).

Boil remaining sauce briskly about 1 minute to reduce and thicken. Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter and swirl in to mix. Pour sauce over scallops. About 3 minutes before serving, sprinkle Swiss cheese over scallops and place under broiler to melt cheese and brown lightly. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 467 calories; 546 mg sodium; 109 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 34 grams protein; 0.21 gram fiber.

ACACIA STREET DATE PUDDING 1 cup flour 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup chopped pitted dates 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans 1/2 cup milk 2 cups water 1 cup brown sugar, packed 1 tablespoon butter 3/4 cup heavy whipping cream

Place flour, 1/2 cup sugar, salt and baking powder in mixing bowl and stir with fork to mix well. Add dates, nuts and milk and stir until mixed. (Batter should be very stiff, mix only until there are no dry ingredients showing). Spread batter evenly in buttered 8-inch square baking pan.

Combine water, brown sugar and butter in saucepan and stir to blend. Bring to boil then pour over date mixture. Place baking sheet under baking pan (in case mixture boils over) and bake at 350 degrees about 1 hour. Lightly whip cream with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Serve pudding warm with whipped cream. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 582 calories; 389 mg sodium; 48 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 86 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.63 grams fiber.