HOME COOK : The Comeback Casserole

Until a few years ago, the casserole was the mainstay of home cooking. Steaming hot, this communal, almost tribal dish was the most frequent centerpiece on the family table.

We abandoned casseroles when “fresh and natural” became the trend and we started cooking everything as briefly as possible. But there shouldn’t be any conflict between the healthy use of fresh ingredients and long, slow-cooking casseroles. The fresh-and-barely-cooked and the slow-and-long-simmering techniques are equally good, just different.

A casserole takes two or more ingredients, a little liquid, usually some aromatic vegetables and herbs and seasonings; then all it needs is patient oven simmering. The result is a rich, deep collaboration of tastes and textures. A well-made casserole endures reheating nicely.

The loss of casseroles has left a gap in our social amenities. There is no gift more welcome to an ailing friend, a bereaved family, a church social, school benefits or potluck suppers. But it’s a break that can be repaired.

Beef and Vegetable Casserole has sustained many a family through our cold winter days. Every ingredient counts in this recipe, including the tiny teaspoon of sugar.

BEEF AND VEGETABLE CASSEROLE 1/3 cup flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 pounds stewing beef plus bones 1/4 cup shortening or vegetable oil 1 quart hot water 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 1 large onion, sliced 2 bay leaves 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 12 small carrots 12 small white onions, trimmed 8 small new potatoes

Mix flour, salt and pepper and roll beef cubes in mixture. Shake off excess flour.

Melt shortening over high heat in heavy-bottomed oven-proof pot. When shortening is very hot, add beef, about 5 or 6 pieces at time, so as not to crowd. Brown on all sides and remove. When last batch of meat is rich dark color, return all to pot and add hot water.

Stir and add lemon juice, Worchestershire, sugar, onion, bay leaves and allspice. Cover and bake at 350 degrees 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until meat is tender. Add carrots, white onions and potatoes and cook another 20 to 25 minutes or until vegetables can be easily pierced with fork. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 481 calories; 779 mg sodium; 97 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 43 grams protein; 1.82 grams fiber.

Shepherd’s Pie must surely have been invented by some long-ago shepherd. All it takes is chopped lamb or mutton, a few drippings or a little gravy and some onions. The shepherd could cook this over a wood fire and top it with mashed potatoes just before dinner.

SHEPHERD’S PIE 3 cups chopped cooked lamb 2 large cloves garlic, peeled 1 medium onion, quartered 1 teaspoon rosemary, crumbled 1/4 pound butter 2 tablespoons flour 3/4 cup beef broth Salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 medium potatoes, cooked and mashed

Combine lamb, garlic, onion and rosemary. Put through meat grinder twice or chop fine in food processor.

Melt butter in skillet and stir in flour. Cook few minutes until smooth and blended. Slowly add beef broth. Stir and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Add lamb mixture. Stir to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon into 1 1/2-quart casserole or deep pie dish. Spread mashed potatoes on top and cover evenly to edge of casserole. Make crisscross design with fork. Bake at 325 degrees 45 to 50 minutes, or until meat is bubbling hot and potatoes are browned. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 191 calories; 248 mg sodium; 51 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.32 gram fiber.

Steamy Sherry Pudding seems a fitting dessert for a casserole meal. A few of the plainest ingredients in a kitchen are transformed into a warm, rich dessert. Even if you think you have flunked baking, you can be proud of this dessert; it will turn out perfectly every time. Serve it warm with softly whipped cream.

STEAMED SHERRY PUDDING Butter, at room temperature 1 cup sugar 3 eggs 1 cup flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 cup Sherry 1 cup walnuts, chopped in large pieces

Use pot or kettle that will accommodate 2-quart mold. Add water to reach 2 or 3 inches up sides of mold. Heat over high heat. Liberally butter mold.

Cream 1/2 cup butter and sugar until smooth. Add eggs and beat until light.

Combine flour, salt and baking powder in bowl and stir with fork to mix well. Add flour mixture to butter mixture and beat well. Add Sherry and blend. Stir in walnuts.

Spoon mixture into mold. Place trivet or mason jar ring on bottom of pot. Place covered mold on top and let pudding steam about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove mold from water, take off lid and test with wood skewer. When skewer comes out of center clean, pudding is done. Let pudding stand 10 minutes in mold, then invert onto plate to unmold. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 506 calories; 360 mg sodium; 148 mg cholesterol; 30 grams fat; 52 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.98 gram fiber.