Your feature ("Coasting on Portugal's Riviera," March 7) brought back memories of my two-month trip through Europe in 1971. For 10 days I stayed in the waterfront, vine-covered Pensao Ricco in Cascais, pictured off to the right in one of your cover photos. The rates for demi-pension were just $5.50 per day and, it being off-season in late October, I was the only pampered guest. The Cascais citizens were unfailingly polite, charming and eager to suggest local attractions. Only the prices seem to have changed.