Artichoke Basics

So many cooks are intimidated by the artichoke. But within its complicated, prickly leaf arrangement, under the inedible hairy choke, lies a delicacy--the meaty heart. Here’s how to enjoy artichokes in their purest form:

* Choose artichokes that have compact, dense heads with a fresh green color. Do not be put off by leaves streaked with brown, the result of frost. But do avoid those with soft, dark spots and shriveled stems. Store artichokes in the refrigerator for a few days wrapped in a plastic food bag.

* When ready to cook, bring a large pot of water to boil. Be sure it’s large enough to hold all the artichokes. Add a few lemon slices for each artichoke as well as a good amount of salt.

* Because raw, peeled artichokes darken on contact with air, fill a bowl with water and add a squeeze of lemon juice before preparing the vegetable. Use a stainless-steel knife (to avoid darkened edges) to trim off the stem ends. Pull off the tough dark green leaves until the leaves show a pale-green ridge at the bottom. Use a paring knife to trim the dark base and taper the stem (cut the stem flat at the base if the artichoke is to be presented upright on a plate). If desired, trim one-half inch off the top of the artichoke with a serrated knife and trim the points of the leaves with kitchen shears. Once prepared, drop the artichoke in a bowl of lemon water while preparing the rest of the artichokes.

* Cook artichokes in boiling water until tender (test with a sharp knife through the heart--it should go in easily), 30 to 40 minutes, depending on size. Drain upside-down on paper towels to remove excess moisture. Serve immediately at room temperature or chilled.

* These days, many people forgo the once classic accompaniment--hollandaise. Instead, artichokes are served with lighter sauces--mustardy, garlicky or lemony (with capers) vinaigrettes--that better enhance the complex flavors inherent in the artichoke.

* To eat a whole cooked artichoke, tear off a leaf, dip it in the vinaigrette and pull the base of the leaf through your teeth to remove the soft, meaty part, discarding the remainder of the leaf on a separate small plate. Once the leaves have been removed, the inedible prickly choke is cut out and discarded. Then there’s your reward: the tender heart and meaty bottom.