Fish School : Know Your Local Fish

To begin with, a snapper is not a snapper. And neither, for that matter, is a sole a sole.

Navigating a West Coast fish market can be a tricky matter--especially if you’re trying to cook from recipes. Most cookbooks are published in New York. But they call for varieties of fish available on the East Coast, which are almost totally different from the varieties we eat out here.

Certainly, you’ll find similar names. Almost any fish market on either coast stocks both red snapper and Dover sole. Unfortunately, those names refer to completely different fish.

True red snapper ( Lutjanus campechanus ) is caught along the Atlantic Coast, from North Carolina south, and off New Zealand. It is a firm-fleshed, sweet-flavored fish that makes for incomparable eating. On the West Coast, red snapper is strictly a label of commercial convenience, referring to any of a dozen varieties of schooling rockfish (family name: Scorpaenidae ) that would have a hard time finding a buyer under their true names--Bocaccio and Chilipepper, for instance. In fact, only two of the 12 varieties are even red-skinned.

This is typical of the large and confusing rockfish family. The state’s official “Guide to the Coastal Marine Fishes of California” lists almost 60 varieties of rockfish. And all rockfish, you can be sure, are not born equal.

“The better fish are generally the red varieties and the varieties that tend to be spinier and stubbier and don’t grow as large as schooling fish,” says Paul Johnson, owner of Berkeley’s Monterey Fish and widely regarded as one of the West Coast’s leading authorities on seafood. He is a co-author of “The California Seafood Cookbook” (Aris Books), which is one of the better guides to the buying and cooking of West Coast seafood. “Those are the fish that have firmer flesh. They tend to be loners rather than school fish.

“What happens with school fish is they tend to predate on each other more than loners, and you get a bio-accumulation of parasites or whatever nasties happen to be around. It exacerbates whatever problems are around at the time. School fish also tend to have softer flesh.”

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Because they are more difficult to catch, loner rockfish generally make up a much smaller part of the catch than schooling fish, which are usually sold as red snapper, Johnson says. And frequently they are caught on hook and line, a method that is more apt to produce better quality fish than the more brutal net fishing.

Loner rockfish are also less prolific and grow more slowly than schooling fish. “The schoolers can grow to maturity in just a few years, whereas some of the more desirable species tend to be really long-lived,” Johnson says. Several years ago, Johnson came across an unusually large four-pound China rock cod and sent it to the Smithsonian Institution to find out how old it was. They reported that the fish was more than 130 years old.

Johnson’s guide to buying rockfish is to look for fish that are stubbier in shape--that is, shorter head to tail in relation to the belly-to-back depth of body. Asked his favorite variety, he immediately named Goldeneye.

Shoppers are also baffled by flatfish. And no wonder. While a rockfish under any other name still provides at least acceptable eating, what passes for Dover sole on this side of the continent is certain to be disappointing.

True Dover sole ( Solea vulgaris ) has a finely textured flesh with a delicate flavor that has made it a favorite on Continental tables for centuries. You can deduce everything you need to know about West Coast Dover sole ( Microstomus pacificus ) from its original name: slime sole. It is a soft-fleshed fish that turns mushy with cooking.

“An absolutely disgusting fish,” says Johnson.

While there aren’t as many flatfish as rockfish--even the best-stocked fish market rarely will have more than a half-dozen varieties at any one time--there are enough to cause confusion. Interestingly, whether they’re called turbot, California halibut or any sort of sole, they’re all flounders.

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The smallest is the sand dab, which usually weighs less than a pound, while the gigantic Pacific halibut (a true halibut that is usually sold as “Alaskan” to differentiate it from the separate species called California halibut), is easily the largest, measuring at 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 feet in length at maturity.

Depending on whom you talk to, petrale sole, sand dabs or starry flounder are the best eating, though California halibut has ardent fans, provided the fish is not cooked too long--it has a tendency to dry out.

And if you happen across a nice whole or pan-dressed rex sole, snap it up. But beware, there have been a lot of suspicious “rex sole fillets” on the market. Johnson says: “No one in their right mind would fillet a rex sole--it’s too small.”

Instead, it’s probably our old friend the slime sole parading under yet another alias.

These two recipes come from Evan Kleiman’s just-published book, “Cucina del Mare” (William Morrow: 320 pages, $23). Kleiman, who is chef/owner of all the Angeli restaurants, is the co-author (with Viana La Place) of “Cucina Fresca,” “Pasta Fresca” and “Cucina Rustica.” Her newest cookbook is devoted to fish.

CRUNCHY BAKED TROUT WITH CAPER-ANCHOVY SAUCE

6 small trout, boned and cleaned

Caper-Anchovy Sauce

1 cup dried coarse bread crumbs

Oil

Lemon wedges

Lay fish in non-reactive pan just large enough to hold in 1 layer. Pour Caper-Anchovy Sauce over. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in refrigerator at least 1 hour.

Lift fish out of marinade and reserve.

Roll each fish in bread crumbs, place side by side in lightly oiled baking pan. Drizzle bit of reserved marinade over fish. Bake at 400 degrees until crumbs are golden brown and fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Garnish with lemon wedges. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

454 calories; 981 mg sodium; 109 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 41 grams protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

Caper-Anchovy Sauce

8 anchovy fillets, finely diced

1/4 cup capers

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt, pepper

Mix anchovies, capers, parsley, olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste in bowl. Set aside at least 1 hour before serving. Makes about 1 cup.

LAYERED BAKE OF TUNA AND TOMATO

2 cups fresh bread crumbs

2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup olive oil

5 large tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch slices

2 to 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

2 pounds tuna steaks or swordfish or mahi-mahi

6 anchovy fillets

Red pepper flakes

1 bunch fresh oregano

Combine bread crumbs with 2 tablespoons olive oil in small bowl. Set aside.

Place half tomatoes in 1 layer in oiled 3-quart oven-proof baking dish. Top with sliced garlic. Lay tuna steaks on top and top with anchovy fillets, red pepper flakes to taste and oregano. Put remaining slices tomato on top of fish and pour remaining 1/2 cup olive oil over all.

Bake at 400 degrees, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle bread crumbs over casserole and continue baking until fish is done, about 10 more minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

412 calories; 333 mg sodium; 51 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 27 grams protein; 0.72 gram fiber.

The Eastern Mediterranean is not rich in fish, and the Egyptians, Lebanese and Syrians cannot boast a highly developed seafood cuisine. One sign is that few of their recipes call for a particular fish. However, they do have one spectacular specialty baked in rich, spicy tahineh sauce. The recipe is at least 1,000 years old (before red pepper was known, the spice was mustard). Adding dill is an Egyptian touch. From “Totally Hot: The Ultimate Hot Pepper Cookbook” by Michael Goodwin, Charles Perry and Naomi Wise. Note: Tahineh must be stirred well before measuring.

SAMAK BI-TAHINEH

(Fish in Hot Tahineh Sauce)

1 1/2 cups chopped onion

1/2 cup olive oil

2 pounds fish fillets

4 medium garlic cloves

1 1/2 cup tahineh

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

3/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup water

Cooked rice

2 teaspoons dill weed

Put onion in skillet with olive oil and saute over low heat until onion is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove onion with slotted spoon and drain. Fry fish fillets in remaining olive oil until cooked through, about 10 minutes, turning 1/2 way through. (Alternatively, fish can be baked in greased baking dish 10 minutes per inch of thickness.)

In small bowl crush garlic. In mixing bowl, combine garlic, tahineh, salt, cayenne, lemon juice and water. Stir until entirely mixed and thickened. Add onions.

Place fish in greased baking dish, pour sauce over fish and bake at 350 degrees 20 minutes. Serve fillets over rice, pouring any excess sauce over rice. Sprinkle with dill. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

664 calories; 935 mg sodium; 45 mg cholesterol; 52 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 36 grams protein; 3.42 grams fiber.

From “Paula Wolfert’s World of Food” (Harper & Row)

OVEN-STEAMED SALMON WITH CHIVE OIL

2 1/2 tablespoons snipped chives

Dash salt

1/4 cup peanut oil or vegetable oil

1/2 head small, firm cauliflower, broken into 12 florets

1/3 pound turnip greens, collards or mustard greens, washed and stemmed

1 1/4 pound center-cut salmon fillet, cut crosswise into 4 (1 inch-thick) portions, about 5 ounces each

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt

1 teaspoon snipped chives

Chopped chive

Combine chives, salt and oil in blender and puree until smooth. Pour into jar, cover tightly and refrigerate. Will keep up to 2 weeks. Return oil to room temperature before using.

Bring pot of salted water to boil. Add cauliflower and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from water, using slotted spoon, and transfer to dish. Add greens to boiling water and blanch 2 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold water. Cook greens, covered, in small saucepan with 1/4 cup of lightly salted boiling water until almost tender, about 10 minutes (less for young leaves). Add greens to cauliflower, cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

Position 1 rack in lower 1/3 of oven and second rack in upper 1/3. Place skillet of boiling water on lower oven shelf. Arrange salmon pieces on metal baking sheet and place on upper rack. Bake at 225 degrees 10 minutes. Turn salmon over and cook 1 minute longer. (Color of salmon will not turn dull and texture will be very juicy.) Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, in large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat, add cauliflower and greens and saute, tossing until hot. Adjust seasonings to taste. Arrange vegetables on large serving platter. Add 3 tablespoons water to skillet and boil quickly to combine with butter juices. Pour juices over vegetables and drizzle about 2 tablespoons of chive oil over vegetables. Place warm salmon in center of platter and sprinkle with mixture of coarse sea salt and chopped chives to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

411 calories; 431 mg sodium; 75 mg cholesterol; 32 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 29 grams protein; 0.87 gram fiber.

TROUT MEUNIERE

2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 small whole trout, cleaned

2 tablespoons butter

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon minced parsley

Combine flour and salt in plate big enough to hold fish. Dredge fish in flour, lightly coating entire outer surface. Lightly shake fish to remove excess flour. Add 1 tablespoon butter to hot non-stick skillet. When it stops sizzling, add fish. Fry for 7 minutes, then carefully turn and fry on other side for another 3 to 5 minutes or until done. Remove fish to warm plate and pour off butter. Return pan to heat and add remaining tablespoon butter. When it stops sizzling, add lemon juice and parsley and stir well. Pour over fish. Makes 1 serving.

Each serving contains about:

530 calories; 296 mg sodium; 191 mg cholesterol; 31 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 48 grams protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

From “Simply French,” Patricia Wells and Joel Robuchon (Morrow).

SALMON ON BED OF CREAMY CABBAGE

1 1/2 pounds green cabbage

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

Sea salt

Freshly ground white pepper

6 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

1 shallot, minced

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup Sherry vinegar

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillet, skin attached, scaled, cut into 4 equal portions

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Chives, snipped with scissors, for garnish

Small bunch chervil or parsley, for garnish

Trim cabbage, discarding any tough outer leaves and tough inner core. Slice into thin slivers. Bring large pot of water to boil. Salt water, add cabbage and cook 1 minute to blanch. Remove cabbage and drain well.

In large skillet combine cabbage with 2 tablespoons butter and cook over low heat 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with sea salt and white pepper. Cover and cook until tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Stir in 5 tablespoons cream and continue cooking until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.

In small saucepan combine shallot with 1 tablespoon butter and dash salt. Cook over low heat until tender and translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add wine and vinegar. Bring to boil. Cook until reduced by 2/3, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Gradually whisk in remaining 1 tablespoon cream and 5 tablespoons butter. Whisk until all butter is incorporated and sauce is smooth and creamy. Taste to adjust for seasonings. Transfer to top of double boiler set over gently simmering water. Cover loosely and keep warm over low heat.

With sharp knife, score salmon on skin side in crisscross pattern, cutting through skin and just slightly cutting into flesh. Generously season both sides of salmon to taste with salt and pepper.

In large non-stick skillet, heat oil over moderately high heat. When hot, place salmon fillets, skin side down, in skillet. Cook without turning until skin is very crisp, 2 to 3 minutes (cooking time will depend on thickness of salmon). With wide spatula, turn salmon over and cook, 30 seconds more. Leave salmon in pan and remove from heat. Salmon will continue to cook.

Spoon cabbage into center of 4 warmed dinner plates. Top with slice of salmon, skin side up, and spoon warm sauce around cabbage. Garnish with herbs and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

563 calories; 180 mg sodium; 146 mg cholesterol; 43 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 32 grams protein; 1.38 grams fiber.

MAHI-MAHI AND SCALLOP SALAD

1 pound mahi-mahi fillet

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 pound scallops

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon parsley

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon ground mustard

3/4 cup olive oil

2 plum tomatoes, diced

Salt, pepper

1 bunch spinach, washed, patted dry and stems removed

1 sweet red pepper, seeded, deveined and thinly sliced

1 yellow pepper, seeded, deveined and thinly sliced

Brush mahi-mahi with 1 tablespoon oil and grill over high heat 4 minutes on 1 side, until browned. Turn and grill 2 to 3 minutes on second side until fish flakes easily with knife. Repeat for scallops, cooking only 2 minutes per side.

In bowl of blender combine garlic, parsley, vinegar and mustard. Process until smooth. Slowly add olive oil to running blender until vinaigrette thickens. With spoon, stir in diced tomatoes. Taste to adjust seasonings.

Tear spinach into bite-size pieces and combine with red and yellow peppers. Toss well to combine. Divide equally among 4 chilled plates. Top spinach-pepper bed with fish and scallops, then spoon over vinaigrette. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

581 calories; 280 mg sodium; 85 mg cholesterol; 49 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 29 grams protein; 0.94 gram fiber.

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