Tasting Notes

1991 Iron Horse Vineyards Chardonnay ($18)--The spice character typical of the coolest area of the Russian River Valley comes through brilliantly in this Chardonnay. I have always liked winemaker Forrest Tancer’s hands-off style of winemaking, and here the fruit simply sings. People who prefer unctuous, oak-y, buttery Chardonnays should try this wine to see what the Chardonnay grape tastes like without excessive oaking. Tasty now, this is a wine that will improve for a few years--not something you can say about many Chardonnays these days. Highly recommended.

1990 Tunnel Hill Chardonnay ($14)--A wine made in a style similar to the Iron Horse but with 18 months of additional age in the bottle. The lean, delicate aroma of cool-climate Chardonnay is perfectly varietal, with fresh citrus-y notes. It was made by Tarrawarra Winery from grapes grown in the cool Yarra Valley of Australia. The delicate grapefruit-y nuance in both aroma and taste leads to an excellent, refined aftertaste.

1991 Fife Vineyards Zinfandel ($16)--This, the first wine from former Inglenook Vineyards president Dennis Fife, is rich and powerful, fairly brawny, smelling like strawberry jam but without overripe aromas or flavors. The grapes grew on old vines on Fife’s ranch in the northern Napa Valley. Gutsy wine in a dramatic package--a tall, black Italian bottle with a black and red label.

1991 Chimere Pinot Noir ($15)--Classic Central Coast-style Pinot Noir with cherries intermingled with traces of cinnamon, clove and smoke. A lighter-textured wine but one with enough richness to match with rare roast beef or herbed chicken. Winemaker Gary Mosby also has an excellent Gamay called Chimere Rouge ($6) that smells like raspberry juice and offers excellent fruit even when chilled.

1991 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir ($15)--This producer of sparkling wine located in the Carneros region of Sonoma County has released its first still wines. This one shows the character of the Carneros admirably, with spiced cinnamon and clove fruit and an attractive depth on the palate that expands with some aeration. A companion Chardonnay ($15) is not quite as distinctive but very well made.