Ice Creamy Coffee, Rich Desserts Are Composed at Cafe

They come to Cafe Mozart in San Juan Capistrano for the continental food--which, like owner-chef Sigmund Hau, has a slight German accent--but they stay for the desserts.

And that makes sense. Cafe Mozart began as a pastry shop 12 years ago, then expanded to a breakfast-and-lunch place, then to a full-service restaurant.

And Hau began as a pastry chef in (where else?) Bavaria, starting his three-year apprenticeship in 1950. “I worked in a bakery with 23 other pastrymen six days a week, 10 hours a day, a place with 200 seats and every one of them filled all day long,” he says. “We made everything right there, and with the kind of business we did, many times pastries were being made to order; everything made ahead was already gone.”

When he completed his pastry apprenticeship, Hau went after his master chef’s degree, a course that included restaurant management, general business and economics--all of which goes a long way to explaining his success.

“I’m the only original owner of a restaurant left in this area from when I started 12 years ago,” he says.

His marketing skills also have played a major role in Cafe Mozart’s growth.

“You have to be flexible--and you have to be good--to last in this very tough business,” he says.

The pastries aren’t even on the menu because Hau changes them daily, depending on his mood. But one item always available is the Bavarian iced coffee.

“I probably should call it something else,” he says, “because Americans think iced coffee is just coffee with ice in it.

“This is made from burnt coffee and sugar, and you can make it way ahead of time and keep it refrigerated for drop-in guests or for yourself if you need a pick-me-up. It’s wonderfully refreshing.”

BAVARIAN

ICED COFFEE

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup ground coffee

1 quart cold water

Vanilla ice cream

Whipped cream

Caramelize sugar by melting over moderate heat in heavy skillet, stirring until golden brown. Add coffee grounds and stir several times. Pour over the water; sugar will lump. Simmer (do not boil) until lumps dissolve. Pour through sieve or cheesecloth to remove coffee grounds. Refrigerate. To serve, fill parfait glass half full of coffee, add scoop of vanilla ice cream and dollop of whipped cream. (8 servings)