THE WINE LIST

The wine program at Prego has gone through some major revisions over the years, and the latest is the safest and best conceived.

Those on a budget will be happy to find 10 white wines under $20 and eight decent red wines under $25. Best bets: 1991 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc, $17.75, and 1990 Caymus Zinfandel, $18.25.

Among the values in red wines are 1990 Shafer Merlot, $28, and 1990 Mondavi Pinot Noir, $25. The list also has 1988 Tignanello, $65, and 1989 Sassicaia, $89, two of Italy’s most famed wines.

On a reserve list, you’ll find such gems as 1986 Sterling Reserve, $75, 1988 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco, $55, and a magnum of 1985 Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, $100.

The list also has 14 excellent single-malt Scotches by the glass ranging from $5 for Glenfiddich and Macallan 12-year-old to $14.50 for Macallan 25-year-old.

Sparkling wine is a bit overpriced (Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs, about $10 to $11 in most shops, is $27 here). For a treat, try the 1990 Ceretto Arneis called Blange, $26.50, a splendid, spicy, slightly spritzy white wine that works as an aperitif.