Chic Sheep : Hollow Road Farms via Zingerman’s Delicatessen : 442 Detroit St.; Ann Arbor, Mich. 48104; (313) 663-3400; <i> MasterCard, Visa</i>

Hollow Road Farms in Stuyvesant, N.Y., makes a fabulous creamy Camembert-style cheese from sheep’s milk. The texture is smooth, but the flavor is assertive--almost peppery. In the Normandy region of France, where the soft, surface-ripened cheese originated, Camembert is normally served with or after a salad. But it is just as good spread on a crusty baguette or with fruit.

Unfortunately, the small dairy farm wholesales its cheeses only to gourmet groceries and cheese shops.

But there is an alternative: Zingerman’s deli in Michigan stocks the cheese and will ship it. An 8-ounce package sells for $4.99, plus postage. In business for 11 years, owners Ari Weinzweig and Paul Saginaw take food very seriously and are obsessed with tracking down great products--Weinzweig once flew to Rome just to buy ricotta. The gourmet gurus publish monthly flyers to educate their customers on subjects ranging from great farmhouse cheeses and butters, choice chocolates, extra-virgin olive oils and quality coffees--all of which are on their shelves and available by mail.