THE WINE LIST

One of the things that charms San Franciscans about Zuni Cafe is its reliability and consistency. Another element is the constantly changing and updated wine list, which is large (nearly 150 wines) and loaded with treasures.

Among the finds in white wines here are French wines from Graves, Muscadet, Alsace, Sancerre, St. Veran, the Rhone and even the Jura; among the reds, you’ll find a well-chosen Italian section, 10 Rhones, seven attractive Burgundies and even a Bouzy from Champagne.

The California whites include the rare 1992 Joseph Phelps Viognier, $34; 1992 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc, $20, and Navarro Gewurztraminer, $20. The domestic red list includes excellent values such as 1991 Havens Merlot, $25; 1990 Lamborn Family Zinfandel, $19, and 1991 Frog’s Leap Zinfandel, $22.

True wine crazies will love the esoterica here as well, even though most of these rare wines are expensive but not overpriced. Among these, I’m pleased to see 1989 Ronco delle Acacie from the Abbazia de Rosazzo, $56, and 1990 Hermitage from J. L. Chave, $60, though the latter may be too young to drink now.