Behind The Scenes : St. John Cruises Into Spring With a Taste of the Tropics

Classically inspired novelties and updated classics swept the runway at the sneak peek of St. John’s Cruise ‘93-94 and Spring ’94 held recently at the Irvine Hyatt.

The colorful palette of Miami’s Deco architecture and a Caribbean influence have apparently breezed all the way to the St. John headquarters in Irvine. Shells and citrus fruit motifs in juicy hues and pastels of pink, daffodil and chalky blue prevail.

White shines bright for collections shown alone with white trims and accessories or in signature knits and denim paired with color pieces or trimmed with metallics. It also crops up in Cruise’s heavy nautical theme along with red and navy, as well as Spring’s French sun print with bright blue and gold.

For evening, St. John basks conservatively in flesh and flash. Its signature paillettes are taken to the limit, covering trousers and tops with the same color mini spangles. The effect is subtle and elegant as it picks up the light and glimmers with each movement. Paillettes also cover clutch purses and shoes, a new addition this season that’s sure to become a mainstay for St. John.

Black sheers make a strong showing, revealing arms, backs and decolletage; ankle-skimming hemlines, however, emphasize modesty . . . or mystery (take your pick).

The coming season will continue to offer Chanel-inspired suits with one added bonus: They are convertible. Cuffs and lapels are removable, altering the look of an outfit.

It’s a response to the times, says Kelly Gray, senior vice president and creative director for St. John. “The collections are updated classics to appeal to today’s economy, but they still have a fun crossover.”