THE WINE LIST

Wine lists in upscale restaurants are usually (a) long and (b) expensive and (c) loaded with foreign names. The Lipp challenges that notion with a creative wine program that is (a) short and (b) cheap but (c) loaded with foreign names.

Don’t let (c) irritate; (b) solves a multitude of problems. Not one bottle of the two dozen listed is more than $19 (though there is a Captain’s List of a few more expensive wines). And if that isn’t enough, you can try every wine by the glass, with no glass priced above $4.50.

As for the foreign influence, it’s true that many people may not have heard of Louis Latour’s 1991 Ardeche, but the word Chardonnay should give you a clue, and at $15 no one should yowl. The same goes for the 1991 Chateau de Blomac, which is Merlot-ish in character and, at $15, a decent buy.

Best bet here has to be the Maison Deutz Brut sparkling wine, $19, a stunning example of California’s challenge to Champagne. Good red wine value: 1989 Green and Red Zinfandel from the Napa Valley, $18. And for dessert, try 1990 Bonny Doon Moscato del Solo, $19, a spumante-style wine.

Also on this list are two Pineau des Charentes (served after dinner at room temperature, but great on the rocks as an aperitif). Dessert wines include some excellent Ports, and there’s sake.

The only drawback is the glasses. They are odd beer-stein-looking things that make it difficult to swirl the wine. No matter, though. This is bistro wine to slosh down, not pontificate over.