A DIVERSITY OF THANKS : Russian Americans Add Vodka to Menu

After New Year’s, Thanksgiving is Ark Kivman’s favorite holiday: a quintessentially American celebration of culinary indulgences and caloric excesses that has no parallel in his Russian homeland.

But as much as the owner of the Moscow Nights nightclub in Studio City savors the traditional turkey and stuffing and cranberry sauce, everything goes better with borsht.

“It’s an American holiday,” Kivman said. “We celebrate it the same way Americans do--big turkey with a lot of vodka.”

There is no holiday such as Thanksgiving in Russia, but Russian immigrants in the United States are nonetheless thankful for the universal gifts the day cherishes: family and friends.

“It is our holiday as well as yours,” said Laura Wain of the Russian American Cultural & Trade Assn. in Panorama City, explaining that most Russians have adopted the holiday of their adopted country. “We have turkey and cranberry sauce, which is all very tasty. We have turkey in Russia, but not for Thanksgiving.”

Although they think of the United States as a great melting pot, Russians said their cooking pots still simmer flavors of home. For instance, traditional Thanksgiving dinner at Kivman’s Ventura Boulevard club is preceded by appetizers of red and black caviar, olive salad, feta cheese and cold chicken stew followed by chicken pate and shish kebabs.

And, of course, vodka--a tradition that began 15 years ago when Kivman first celebrated Thanksgiving with a group of American friends. “They provided the turkey and the dressing,” he said. “I brought the Russian vodka. They loved me.”