White Wedding: Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

When the Meritage Assn. was formed five years ago to promote American wines blended in the same manner as is done in the Bordeaux region, red wine was the focus. White wine came along as a kind of afterthought, but in the last two years white Meritage has been stealing the show.

There is nothing wrong with red Meritage wines, but it is becoming increasingly clear to winemakers in California that good-quality Cabernet Sauvignon can stand on its own without any help from Merlot and the other cousin varieties.

However, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon together make splendid wines. The blends show the best qualities of each variety, pairing the fruit and creamy texture of Sauvignon Blanc with the herbs and spice of Semillon.

Consumers have taken to the white Meritage wines faster than many wineries expected, and in the last two years many have rushed to make the wines, even though the supply of top-quality Semillon is limited. Moreover, some producers are making a varietal Semillon as well, reducing even further the amount of that grape available for blending.

Still, even though Semillon is in demand, prices for the white Meritage wines are far lower than most Chardonnays and frequently represent real bargains, considering that these blends rival Chardonnay in texture.

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Since white Meritage wines are not well understood in the marketplace, many of the following wines should all be found discounted 10% to 20% from the prices listed. The first six wines I found to be particularly outstanding.

1991 Konocti Winery “Mt. Konocti Reserve,” Lake County ($9.50): Faint hay and melon notes, not much oak, and a flavorful, delicate finish. A wine with more fruit and structure than many, and one that works well with a wide range of lighter foods.

1992 Alderbrook Vineyards “Duet,” ($12): Classic aroma of fresh figs (from the Semillon) and freshly cut hay (from the Sauvignon), with melons in the taste and a creamy texture. Delicious.

1992 Carmenet Vineyards “White Reserve,” Edna Valley ($12): This wine is from grapes grown in Chalone Group’s Paragon Vineyard in San Luis Obispo and shows the herbal nature of the area, with a green leaf and mint fruit aroma. There is also vanilla and oak from barrel aging and a creamy aftertaste. Not for everyone, but a stylish and interesting wine that certainly gives you oomph for the dollar.

1991 Beringer Vineyards “Meritage” ($11): This attractive wine makes a statement for those who like intense varietal character of green bean, olive and melon, with a trace of lime. There is a good deal of toastiness from oak aging, but the flavors are all coming together, and it will be splendid in another year or two.

1990 Benziger “A Tribute,” Sonoma County ($12): Not as oak-y as past vintages, this wine’s good herbal notes and tasty fruit compete successfully with the oak.

1991 Lyeth White ($7): Now a brand of Jean-Claude Boisset, this stylish and reasonably priced white wine offers an aroma of herbs and dried flowers (not unlike chamomile tea) with a spiced finish. A great buy.

1992 Vichon Winery “Chevrignon,” Napa Valley ($8): Alas, not as crisp and tart as past vintages, but this new style of blended wine is built for a wider audience, with fresh melon-y fruit and a full, rich taste.

1992 Estancia Vineyards “Meritage,” California ($12): Smoke, green olive and melons play tag. Served cold, the wine tastes like a Graves; served too warm and it’s flabby. An elegant, nicely crafted wine.

1992 Merryvale Vineyards “Meritage,” Napa Valley ($13): There are delicate nuances of herbs, melons and pears here, but the flavors are fairly lean, and the wine lacks a bit of intensity. There is a good creaminess in the finish and a trace of smoke from oak aging.

1991 Guenoc Winery “Langtry Meritage White,” Lake County ($15): Probably should have been spelled Lang-tree for the amount of oak in this wine, but some people may like it. There is very mild herbal character that may someday show itself.

1992 Concannon Vineyards “Assemblage,” Livermore ($15): The 60% Semillon in this wine, which will be released this month, gives it a lovely green olive note; there is also a creamy texture and decent fruit. But the oak is at present a bit strong, so there is a distinct vanilla bean note.

As a ringer, in the blind tasting I put in 1992 Semillon from Columbia Crest Winery in Washington ($7). The wine scored very high and is an exceptional effort. The aroma is of pure pears, mint and other spices. There is little oak to muck up the wonderful fruit. This is a top-rate wine, equal in quality to anything sampled.

Wine of the Week

1991 Borgianni, Castello di Volpaia ($8) --As the red wines of Italy steadily gain in popularity, due largely to the great success of Italian restaurants, there has been an increase in prices that is not always warranted by the quality. Just two years ago you could buy a wine as good as Isole e Olena Chianti Classico for $7 or $8 a bottle. Today the same wine is $12. The Borgianni wine, however--made from Sangiovese, the dominant grape of Chianti, by Volpaia, one of the highest-altitude wineries in Chianti--is not labeled Chianti. Nor is it priced like it. The property, with its picturesque medieval castle and two churches encompassing a courtyard village, has always made great wines, including another excellent vino da tavola called Balifico. The Borgianni offers excellent sour cherry fruit and a very clean, tart aftertaste.