GOOD COOKING : Homey, Sweet Homey

Consider the following versatile recipes for a trio of sweets that will work for a broad sweep of entertaining needs, including weekend guests. These recipes are a safeguard for the home cook, the equivalent of wearing a belt and suspenders. Because they are simple, homey treats, they work with bowls of apples and pears or dried fruits as well as dishes of spiced nuts and chocolate truffles. Their simplicity makes them a perfect companion with many festive beverages.

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Lightly flavored with orange, this angel cake is moist enough to be served on its own with just a dusting of powdered sugar; it’s a delicious no-fat option. It’s perfect for tea or to accompany egg nog or hot spiced cider.

ORANGE ANGEL CAKE

1 1/2 cups superfine sugar

1 cup cake flour

2 cups egg whites (about 16 large)

1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 tablespoons thawed frozen orange concentrate

3 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest

1 tablespoon powdered sugar

1 (10-ounce) package frozen raspberries in syrup

Raspberry sorbet or vanilla frozen nonfat yogurt, optional

Divide superfine sugar in half. Sift half 3 times. Set aside. Sift other half of sugar together with flour 3 times. Set aside.

Use electric beater to beat egg whites on low speed in grease-free bowl with clean beaters until foamy. Add cream of tartar and salt. Increase mixer speed to medium. Slowly add lemon juice and orange juice concentrate. Add reserved sifted sugar, 1 tablespoon at time, beating well after each addition. Continue to beat on medium speed until whites have increased in volume about fivefold and hold shape but still look shiny and moist, about 10 minutes. Use rubber spatula to gently but thoroughly fold mixture of 2 teaspoons zest and flour mixture in 3 batches into whipped whites.

Transfer batter to ungreased 10-inch tube pan. Smooth surface with rubber spatula. Cut through batter in 5 or 6 places to break any large air pockets.

Bake at 375 degrees until well-browned and wood pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 30 to 35 minutes. Invert pan onto narrow-necked bottle to cool completely.

When cake is completely cool, loosen from sides and center tube of pan with flexible knife. Invert onto serving plate. Dust top of cake with powdered sugar pressed through fine sieve.

Puree raspberries and remaining 1 teaspoon zest in blender or food processor to make sauce. Press through fine sieve.

To serve, ladle some sauce on serving plate. Arrange 1 slice of cake over. Garnish with small scoop of sorbet. Makes 10 servings.

Note: If superfine sugar is unavailable, process granulated sugar in food processor until texture is superfine, about 30 to 60 seconds.

Each serving, without sorbet or yogurt, contains about:

222 calories; 171 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; trace fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.65 gram fiber.

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These thin, crisp spicy cookies disappear wherever they show up, whether on a buffet, at a tea or for a sophisticated dinner. You’ll use very little of the glaze but it makes the cookies great to look at.

SHINY GINGER SPICE COOKIES

Sugar

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, softened

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 1/2 tablespoons dark corn syrup

3/4 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 3/4 cups cake flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Salt

1 egg

Cream 1/2 cup sugar, butter, egg yolk, vanilla, corn syrup, fresh ginger, cinnamon, ground ginger and cloves in electric mixer. Add flour, baking soda and dash salt. Mix well.

Transfer dough to plastic food bag. Shape into compact ball, then flatten into disk. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

Divide dough into quarters. Work with 1 piece at time, keeping remainder refrigerated. On floured board, roll 1 section of dough to 1/4-inch thickness. Use cookie cutters to cut into desired shapes. Transfer cookies to greased baking sheets. Repeat with remaining dough.

For glaze, use fork to mix egg and 1/4 teaspoon salt in small dish until frothy. Brush generously (without spilling onto sheet) over cookies. Sprinkle sugar to taste over.

Bake at 350 degrees until medium-brown, about 12 minutes. Transfer to wire rack to cool completely. Can be made few days ahead and kept at room temperature in airtight container. Makes 4 dozen (3-inch) cookies.

Each cookie contains about:

48 calories; 14 mg sodium; 17 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

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Part quick bread, part cake, this tender maple-pecan tea cake works from early morning to the wee hours of the night. Plan to make the cake two days in advance so it will slice more neatly. Store at room temperature, wrapped airtight.

GLAZED MAPLE-PECAN TEA CAKE

3/4 cup unsalted butter, room temperature

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Vanilla

Maple flavoring

2 large eggs

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, room temperature

1 3/4 cups cake flour

1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup finely chopped pecans

Buttermilk

1/2 cup powdered sugar, sifted

Cream butter, sugar, 2 teaspoons vanilla and 1 1/2 teaspoons maple flavoring in electric mixer until fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at time, beating each until smooth. Add cream cheese. Mix until smooth.

Sift flour, baking powder and salt together. Combine dry ingredients with pecans. Add flour mixture to batter little at time, alternating with 2/3 cup buttermilk. Mix until smooth. Transfer batter to 9-inch (7- to 8-cup capacity) loaf pan that has been generously greased and dusted with flour and fitted with piece of greased parchment or wax paper. Smooth batter surface with spatula.

Bake at 325 degrees until well browned and wood pick inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour, 35 minutes. Cake will crack on top. Let cake stand in pan 10 minutes.

In bowl combine powdered sugar, 2 teaspoons vanilla, 2 teaspoons maple flavoring and 2 teaspoons buttermilk. Stir until smooth.

Use flexible metal spatula to separate cake from sides of pan. Carefully remove cake from pan. Place cake on cooling rack. Spread glaze on warm cake. Let cake cool completely. Cake can be stored 2 days at room temperature, wrapped in foil and then placed in airtight plastic food bag. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

382 calories; 170 mg sodium; 90 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.11 gram fiber.

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