Same Street, Slimmer Morton’s

There’s a cliche about moving, whether it’s just down the hall to the apartment with a better view, or to the restaurant across the street with a bigger parking lot: Precious possessions become suddenly less treasured when you actually have to lift them into a packing box.

The new Morton’s--that everlasting Monday-night hangout of Hollywood power brokers--has the mark of an owner who has pared his business down to its essential elements: big palm trees, big steaks and, we can only assume for now, big attitude (on the Wednesday after the earthquake, the greeters at the door seemed downright happy that customers had bothered to come out and eat). One item that didn’t make the move--Morton’s crab cakes, which is just as well, because in the final months at the old space, the crab cakes were seeming more than a bit tired.

Big money was obviously spent on the new Morton’s minimalist design. Just across Robertson Boulevard from its tree-shrouded, stuccoed former home, the new place looks like an art gallery designed as much to show off its famous customers as well as its huge Ruscha paintings.

The menu has also been trimmed to the basics. A T-bone steak nicely roasted in a wood-burning oven. Grilled veal chops and lamb loins. Grilled swordfish and ahi tuna. Pan-seared salmon. And Morton’s famous lime-grilled chicken.

Some of these basics could use some fine-tuning. But there is a new chef in the kitchen, and some of his appetizers are terrific. Grilled shrimp comes in a wonderfully pungent black bean sauce. Grilled lobster sits on top of a sweet corn pancake with curried creme fraiche.

Of course, minimalism doesn’t come cheap--the least expensive bottle of wine here is $25, and the prices go way up from there.

* Morton’s, 8764 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (310) 276-5205. Entrees $18-$28.