Hot Stickers

Until recently, I’d never met a potsticker I didn’t like. That, however, was before I ordered them at a Chinese restaurant in the small town where I now live.

Signs announced, “We now have potstickers,” so I placed an order and waited expectantly. What arrived at the table looked familiar, but it had a texture reminiscent of rubber.

You don’t have to be an accomplished Chinese cook to make better dumplings than those, no matter where you live.

The wrappers can be bought already prepared in any Chinese market (if you can’t find wrappers specifically made for potstickers, simply trim the corners of won-ton wrappers with scissors). The filling can simply be seasoned pork sausage, or ground pork combined with finely minced green onions, water chestnuts and fresh ginger, with soy sauce and sesame oil for flavoring. Carrots, cabbage and shrimp also make good additions.

Working with one potsticker skin at a time, dip your finger in water and lightly moisten the skin about 1/4 inch in from the edge all the way around (Step 1). Place a rounded teaspoon of the sausage mixture in the center (Step 2).

Fold the skin over the filling (Step 3) and pinch it closed at the center of the arc. Working to one side of the center at a time, seal the edges by making three or four pleats toward the center (Step 4). As you work, the dumpling will form a flat-bottomed crescent with pleats along the top.

The potstickers may also be formed with a small press (Step 5), available at cookware stores. The directions tell you to place the wrapper on the open press, add the filling in the center, moisten the edge, then fold the press over. This method is a lot quicker, and the resulting shape is very similar (Step 6).

Potstickers are cooked by a combination of pan-frying and steaming. This causes the bottoms to stick slightly to the pan--thus their name. Getting the right amount of “stick” without tearing the dumplings when removing them from the pan takes a little practice.

The dumplings should be cooked in a heavy or non-stick 12-inch skillet that has a tight-fitting lid. Place it over medium-high heat, then add enough oil to generously coat the bottom of the pan.

Arrange the potstickers close together in a circle around the edge of the pan with the pleated edges up (Step 7). If they don’t all fit, a few can also be placed in the center.

Cook them until the bottoms begin to brown (Step 8), then add the water carefully to prevent spattering (Step 9). Immediately cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potstickers are puffed and the liquid is nearly evaporated.

Remove the lid and increase the heat again to medium-high. After the liquid boils away and the potstickers begin to sizzle in the remaining oil, continue cooking until the bottoms become crisp and browned (Step 10), adding a small amount of oil if necessary.

Accompany the dumplings with soy sauce, chile oil and hot Chinese mustard.

POTSTICKERS 1/4 pound ground pork 2 tablespoons finely minced green onions 2 tablespoons finely minced water chestnuts 1 tablespoon finely minced ginger root 1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 18 potsticker skins Oil 3/4 cup water or diluted chicken stock Soy sauce, chile oil and hot Chinese mustard

Combine pork, green onions, water chestnuts, ginger, soy sauce and sesame oil. Set aside.

Place 1 potsticker skin at time on work surface. Lightly moisten around entire edge with small amount of water, then place 1 rounded teaspoon pork mixture in center of skin.

Fold skin over filling and pinch closed at center of arc. Working to 1 side of center at time, seal edges by making 3 to 4 pleats toward center. Dumpling will form flat-bottomed crescent with pleats across top.

Heat 12-inch heavy or non-stick skillet with tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. Add enough oil to coat bottom of pan generously.

Arrange potstickers close together in circle around edge of pan, pleated edges up. Cook until bottoms begin to brown.

Add water carefully to prevent spattering and immediately cover pan. Reduce heat to medium and cook 6 to 8 minutes, until potstickers are puffed and liquid is nearly evaporated.

Remove lid and increase heat to medium-high. Cook until liquid boils away and potstickers begin to sizzle in remaining oil, then continue cooking until bottoms become crisp and browned, adding small amount of oil if necessary.

Serve with soy sauce, sesame-chile oil and hot Chinese mustard. Makes 18 potstickers.

Each potsticker contains about: 43 calories; 81 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.02 gram fiber.