THE WINE LIST

The Citrus wine list has evolved from the early days, when the offerings were slim, prices were high, and no one seemed to care about wine.

Today the main wine list is large, better priced, more carefully chosen and the servers seem delighted to pour.

The Bar Bistro list reflects this greater care. About one-tenth of the main wine list (the lesser-priced selections) is offered as the Bistro list, and there are so many bistro-esque wines at fair prices--nothing more than $30 a bottle--it’s hard to choose.

You may have 1992 Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc, $18, with appetizers, move to 1990 Guigal Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc, $18, then try 1989 Jaboulet Cotes-du-Rhone red, $20.

Two sleepers that shouldn’t be missed by the adventurous: the spicy and dry 1990 Trimbach Gewurztraminer, $22, and the pleasingly earthy, deeply fruity 1990 Delas Gigondas, $25. Seven wines by the carafe are also offered, and if that’s not enough, you can order off the Citrus wine list.