1992 Seghesio Winery Chardonnay, Sonoma County...

1992 Seghesio Winery Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($9) --Tasting through 54 Chardonnays from the 1992 vintage may sound like fun, but after a while the palate cracks from too much alcohol and oak. Since I prefer lighter, leaner-styled Chardonnays, I had a difficult time finding 10 to really love.

This one was among the top group and was the least expensive. The aroma is delicate with nuances of pear and spice, but there’s excellent fruit in the mouth and more fruit than oak in the finish. The wine is half from the cool Russian River Valley and half from almost-as-cool Dry Creek Valley.

My favorite wine of the tasting was 1992 St. Clement Vineyards Chardonnay ($16), with classic lemon zest and spice aromas and a sensational texture. Try it with grilled swordfish.

Other 1992 Chardonnays that did well were Belvedere Winery ($13), with spiced fruit like apples and quince; Carneros Creek Winery ($13), lightly tropical with a marvelous crisp texture; Iron Horse Vineyards ($18), with green apple and lime; Shafer Vineyards ($15.50), laden with tropical fruit notes and richness without much oak, and Handley Cellars ($11), a Dry Creek-area wine with lean, crisp notes.

For those who prefer a richer style, the 1992 Dehlinger Winery ($14) was interesting and tasty.