Ever-Changing, Sophisticated Tastes

Zack’s is named after a family cat with a big appetite. A pretty sophisticated cat, presumably.

After graduating from the American Culinary Institute, Greg Gevurtz became a prominent player in the thriving Venice Beach restaurant scene. He cooked at the West Beach Cafe, helped open Rebecca’s and became part owner at Hal’s Bar and Grill. Ten months ago, along with his wife, Leslie, Gevurtz opened Zack’s in Redondo Beach. In addition to serving contemporary American cuisine, it features a changing display of works by local artists.

The menu at Zack’s changes every week, although a few standbys are always available. One is an appetizer of duck wontons ($5.25) stuffed with duck confit-- pronounced cone-FEE , it’s duck slowly cooked in its own fat--mixed with cabbage, ginger, green onions and soy sauce. The resulting fried dumplings are served with a peach sauce emboldened with curry and chipotle chiles.

The soup of the week may be cream of tomato with basil and garlic croutons, or perhaps cream of golden squash with red bell peppers and dill ($2.50).

The two most popular main courses reveal the range of tastes among Zack’s customers. One is veggie heaven ($9.50), a plate of grilled vegetables, mashed potatoes, rigatoni, sauteed spinach and couscous. The other is a meatloaf made with New York steak, pork, eggs and bread crumbs, served with tomato gravy, mashed potatoes and sauteed spinach ($10.50). The menu recently featured pan-roasted duck breast ($12.50), awash in a caramelized honey and prune sauce and accompanied by basmati rice with sunflower seeds and zucchini.

Zack’s serves a $14 Sunday brunch with unlimited sparkling wine, a carafe of orange juice, a basket of breads and a choice of entree, such as smoked salmon eggs Benedict.

Zack’s is at 800 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach. (310) 316-1081 . Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. , 5:30 to 10 p.m.