DO-IT-YOURSELF : Meet the New Face on the Butcher Block

A popular feature in many kitchens is a solid-wood butcher block cutting surface--usually 1 1/2-inch thick hardwood strips laminated together to form countertop inserts or dedicated cutting tables.

If you use your butcher block surface for cutting and not purely for decorative use, you’ve noticed that the wood gets scarred, dirty and stained. You can give new life to this surface with a lot less work than you might imagine.

The first step involves scraping the surface using a hook scraper (also called a wood or paint and varnish scraper).

This will remove dirt and any old finish remaining on the butcher block. This type of scraper works much faster than sandpaper, which tends to clog until bare wood is exposed. For best results, use a scraper with a new, sharp blade.

Hold the scraper firmly, with the blade perpendicular to the wood. Press down as you pull the scraper toward you in a long, controlled motion. Always scrape with the grain and lift the blade on the return stroke.

After you’ve scraped the entire surface, go back and work on any dark areas and deep knife cuts. To avoid excessive hollowing, scrape the area around the affected spot as well.

Sanding is the next step. An orbital palm sander, especially one with a dust collection bag, is your best sanding tool because it’s lightweight and easy to control.

You can also use sandpaper and a sanding block--it’ll simply take longer and be more work.

Begin sanding with 80-grit paper, changing the paper often, especially if it clogs. To prevent marring the adjacent countertop surface and backsplash, use a sanding block near all edges.

When most of the dark areas and cuts are gone, switch to a 120-grit paper and finish the job. Always sand with the grain.

You’ll find that some of the surface blemishes sand out easily, while others, such as deep knife marks that remain after scraping, take time to feather out. As you sand, vacuum the dirt and grit so you can see the true condition of the wood.

You can brighten the whole surface by using a 1-to-1 solution of household bleach and water. For any remaining stained areas, use the bleach full strength, working it into the wood with a toothbrush. Bear in mind that it may be impossible to get out all the dark areas.

When you’re finished, wipe the surface with a rag soaked in white vinegar to neutralize the bleach. Wash the area with dish soap and water, let dry and then give the surface a final sanding with 120-grit paper.

Mineral oil is a good, nontoxic finish for the surface that will offer some moisture protection.

To apply, set the bottle in hot water for 10 or 15 minutes to thin the oil. Then, use a clean, dry rag to wipe on as many coats as the wood will absorb.