A Cry for Sweet Simplicity

I always knew that bakers were a different breed. After all, it takes a special type of temperament to make one willing--in fact, desirous--to weigh and measure with precision.

But it wasn’t until my visit to the Lenotre School in Plaisir, France, that I discovered just how much the rest of the culinary world looks at us as oddities. In France, bakers are referred to as “the military,” only a ganache away from the fanatic title “St. Cyr” (equated with West Point) reserved for the chocolatiers.

In this country, many upscale restaurants also have separate work stations for pastry chefs.

This special interest and attention has inevitably led to some instances of overpresentation, in which a fledgling pastry chef may feel compelled to follow the trend of tortured trapezoidal presentations, brilliant when executed by a skillful technician but often ridiculously unnecessary when not.

I am beginning to yearn for homey and inviting pastry, carefully prepared, but alive. It was at Manhattan’s Mad 61 where I found a perfect example: a panna cotta, prepared by pastry chef Stacie Pierce.

This Italian dessert is similar to a caramel custard but made with gelatin instead of egg yolk for a lighter, cleaner taste and an intriguingly resilient texture. In fact, it is a dessert of such astonishing purity and simplicity that I knew I would want to enjoy it again and again.

Fortunately, Pierce shared her recipe, which is a refined version of one given to her by an Italian friend’s grandmother. Pierce’s addition of sweetened condensed milk results in a velvety texture and rounded creamy flavor. In addition to the caramel version, she recommends adorning panna cotta with nothing but fresh seasonal berries.

Either way, this dessert is simply nothing short of heaven.

PANNA COTTA

3 cups whipping cream, preferably not ultra-pasteurized

6 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise (if using Tahitian, use 1/2 bean)

1 envelope plus 3/4 teaspoon unflavored gelatin

Stir together cream and sweetened condensed milk in 4-cup heat-proof measure. Add vanilla bean and sprinkle gelatin on top. Let stand at least 5 minutes. Scald mixture either in microwave oven on HIGH (100% power) 3 minutes, or in saucepan on stove-top over medium-low heat, until small bubbles form around periphery, stirring often.

Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean. Strain mixture. Pour into caramel-lined molds or, if to be served plain, poured into 6 lightly oiled (6-ounce or 3/4-cup capacity) ramekins or custard cups. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

To unmold, run small spatula around edge of each ramekin. Place serving plate over top and invert, inserting metal spatula into side between Panna Cotta and ramekin to create air pocket. Makes 6 servings.

Variation:

To serve with caramel sauce, stir together 3/4 cup sugar and 1/4 cup water in small, heavy non-stick saucepan until sugar is completely moistened. Place over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow syrup to boil undisturbed until it turns deep-amber color (350 to 370 degrees on candy thermometer).

Immediately remove from heat and pour syrup into glass measure (sprayed with non-stick vegetable spray) to stop cooking. Use greased tablespoon to quickly pour 1 tablespoon caramel into each ramekin, turning and rolling ramekin until caramel evenly coats sides.

Refrigerate ramekins until caramel is hardened, or allow to harden at room temperature. Pour Panna Cotta into ramekins. Cover tightly and refrigerate at least 6 hours, preferably overnight, to allow caramel to liquefy.

Note : Rinse used vanilla pods well under hot water and dry in warm spot several days until totally dry. Use pods to flavor sugar or sauces.

If caramel hardens before you’ve finished pouring into all 6 ramekins, microwave few seconds until pourable.