Bounty Beautified

From North Dakota to Ohio stretches some of the best farmland in the country, not to mention prairies and forests with wild game; rivers, lakes and streams with fresh fish; woods full of foraged foods; and orchards heavy with fruit.

Today, the Midwest also has an increasing number of small producers of specialty foods; their wares include apples grown from turn-of-the century seeds, organic lamb and chickens, caviar and farmhouse cheeses.

While Midwestern cooking may have a reputation for stodginess, plenty of bright cooks take advantage of these new products.

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Chefs Debbie Gold and Michael Smith feature a melon terrine on the menu of the American Restaurant in Kansas City, Mo. It’s a light, refreshing first course. At Peter’s Restaurant and Bar in Indianapolis, seared duck breast with blackberry-Port sauce is a favorite. Chef David Foegley serves the fanned duck slices with a fresh berry relish and sweet potato-chive pancakes. Judy Contino of Bittersweet, a Chicago bakery/cafe, proposes a rich chocolate pave with dried tart cherries.

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Layers of diced melon and dark green arugula leaves in this terrine make for a dazzling presentation.

MELON TERRINE WITH PROSCIUTTO HAM, BASIL AND ARUGULA SALAD

1 (1/4-ounce) package unflavored gelatin

1 cup boiling water

3 tablespoons Ruby Port wine

1/2 pound arugula, stems trimmed

1 ripe medium cantaloupe, cut into 3/4-inch dice, to equal about 4 cups

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons light-tasting olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

6 cups mixed arugula, stems trimmed, rinsed and crisped

6 cups basil leaves, rinsed and crisped

1 cup Ruby Port Wine Glaze

1 cup small diced casaba melon, chilled

6 slices thinly sliced prosciutto ham

For terrine, in small mixing bowl mix gelatin in 1 cup boiling water and Port wine. Set aside. In separate pot of boiling water, blanch arugula 5 seconds, drain in colander and place under cold running water to set color. Arrange in single layer on paper towels. Then blot dry.

Dip each melon piece in gelatin mixture, then place in bottom of lightly oiled 5-cup terrine mold until bottom is filled. Make sure melon pieces fit snugly. Top melon layer with layer of blanched arugula leaves. Generously brush arugula layer with gelatin mixture. Continue layering alternating gelatin-dipped melon with gelatin-brushed arugula until terrine is filled, finishing with arugula layer. There should be 4 layers of each. Discard leftover gelatin.

Cover mold. Chill until set, at least 6 hours. Can be made day ahead and stored in refrigerator, covered airtight.

For salad, in small mixing bowl combine vinegar, oil, salt and pepper to taste. Can be made ahead and refrigerated. (Let come to room temperature before using.) Just before serving, mix arugula and basil with vinaigrette. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Unmold terrine by running sharp, thin knife around edge of mold. Invert on flat platter. If terrine does not loosen, drape hot, wet towel over inverted mold 5 minutes. Remove mold. Use sharp knife (not serrated) to cut terrine into 6 equal slices. Place slice on chilled salad plates. Sprinkle with diced casaba melon. Dribble with Ruby Port Wine Glaze. Loosely roll up each prosciutto slice. Arrange on plate. Garnish with arugula and basil salad. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

273 calories; 157 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.52 gram fiber.

Ruby Port Wine Glaze

1 3/4 cups Ruby Port wine

In small saucepan bring Port to boil. Simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 1 cup, about 6 minutes. Makes 1 cup.

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Once marinated, the duck doesn’t take long to cook. Duck breasts should be done no more than medium; otherwise they become tough.

SEARED DUCK BREAST WITH BLACKBERRY-PORT SAUCE

2 (8-ounce) boneless, skinless duck breasts, halved

1/4 cup virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon sliced garlic

1 teaspoon dried ground sage

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2/3 cup blackberry liqueur

2/3 cup Ruby Port wine

1/4 cup water

6 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon arrowroot dissolved in 1 teaspoon cold water

In plastic food bag combine duck breasts, olive oil, garlic, sage, salt and pepper. Shake well to mix. Seal tightly and refrigerate at least 6 hours or as long as 2 days.

For sauce, in non-aluminum saucepan combine liqueur, Port, water and sugar. Bring to boil. Simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 1 cup. Whisk in arrowroot slowly. Cook until thickened. Set aside. Can be made day ahead and refrigerated. Gently reheat before using.

To serve, remove duck breasts from marinade. Place 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, lightly season duck breasts to taste. Then sear about 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on desired doneness. Use sharp knife to cut breasts into thin crosswise slices. Fan slices on warm dinner plate. Pour 1/4 cup of hot sauce over slices. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

388 calories; 341 mg sodium; 46 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.07 gram fiber.

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This pave, a French term describing a rectangular-shaped preparation, is very easy to prepare and can be made several days ahead. Slightly sweetened dried cherries complement the chocolate .

CHOCOLATE PAVE

13 ounces bittersweet chocolate (preferably Callebaut or Valrhona)

3/4 cup unsalted butter

10 large egg yolks

Sugar

2 large egg whites

3/4 cup whipping cream, chilled

1 1/2 cups dried tart cherries

Caramel sauce

In double boiler or microwave oven on MEDIUM (50%) power, gently melt chocolate with butter. Transfer to 2-quart mixing bowl.

Use electric mixer to whip egg yolks with 1/4 cup sugar until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Whisk egg yolk mixture into chocolate mixture.

Whip cream until thick. In 3 batches, fold into chocolate mixture.

In clean mixer bowl with clean beaters, whip egg whites with 2 tablespoons sugar until thick and soft peaks form but are still moist-looking. Stir 1/4 of egg whites into chocolate mixture. Fold in remaining egg whites. Fold in cherries. Transfer to 4-cup terrine mold lined with enough plastic wrap to allow some overhang. Refrigerate at least 6 hours until solid, or up to 3 days wrapped airtight. Pave can also be frozen up to 1 month.

To serve, unmold. Remove plastic wrap and use sharp knife to cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices. Place slices on chilled dessert plates. Drizzle with caramel sauce. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving, without caramel sauce, contains about:

576 calories; 36 mg sodium; 418 mg cholesterol; 51 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 0.89 gram fiber.

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Note : Although many recipes call for uncooked eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has found them to be a potential carrier of food-borne illness and recommends that diners avoid eating raw eggs. Commercial egg substitutes that have been pasteurized may be used in place of raw eggs in certain circumstances. Check egg substitute package for applications.