Cake : A Baker’s Secrets: Be Sweet, Be Ruthless

After months of intensive cake-baking, I have found the secrets of success. Now I bake cakes that are lighter and purer than any I can buy. You will too--I promise. This is what you must do.

* Arrange things so you’ll have no interruptions. Air is the crucial ingredient in cake; the instant you stop beating the batter, the incorporated air begins to escape. This means time is of the essence, so be sweet, but be ruthless.

* Use the best ingredients. That means the freshest. Replace spices and baking powder every six months, flour and cream of tartar annually. Use unsalted butter. Although salt, a preservative, can disguise the fact that butter’s been in storage, it will never have the quality of got-to-be-fresh sweet butter. And cake flour, made from soft wheat (bread flour is made from hard wheat), lets you produce an incomparably delicate crumb.

* Have the ingredients at their optimum temperatures when you add them. The effect of softening butter to the consistency of mayonnaise (short bursts of half power in the microwave work well) was one of my most exciting discoveries--it lets the butter whip to maximum airiness. Egg yolks and whites must be warm for whipping too. Warm them by covering the eggs (still in the shell) in hot water before you light the oven. Unless specified, all other ingredients should be at room temperature, about 70 degrees.

* Measure with care. Measure liquid and soft solid ingredients in transparent measuring pitchers. For dry ingredients, use a nested measuring cup set, which has separate cups for measuring a half or quarter cup, rather than trusting the marks on the side of a whole-cup measure. Set the appropriate cup over wax paper and lightly spoon the dry ingredients into the cup (dipping the cup into flour, for example, compacts it). Sweep the top even with a chopstick or pencil.

* Mix at the appropriate speeds. Next to temperature of ingredients, I’ve found this to be the most critical element. Faster is not better. Follow indicated speeds precisely. (Speeds are given for portable mixers. If you’re using a stand mixer, use one notch slower.)

* Don’t overbake. Begin testing for doneness five to seven minutes before the recipe indicates. If your baking times are often at odds with the recipe’s, have your oven recalibrated by the utility company.

* Serve the cake at the optimum time. Butter cakes are by far at their lightest on the day of baking. If you can’t make and serve a cake the same day, bake a chiffon or sponge cake rather than a butter cake.

*

One last note: Turning a cake out of its pan can be scary. Do this: Run a table knife around the sides of the pan. Lay a cloth on the cake, then a rack or big plate over the cloth. Turn the whole thing over, lift off the pan, gently pull off the lining paper and lay a second rack, feet up, over the cake. Then turn over again, and the cake will drop top-side-up onto the rack. Remove the cloth and cool the cake away from drafts.

When you’re ready to present a cake, don’t fret about fancy decorations. A pretty platter, perhaps with a paper doily, and a wreath of edible or silk flowers and/or leaves around the base of the cake are all you need to make a heart-stopping presentation.

The three cakes that follow are models for their types. If you have a favorite cake flavor but a recipe hasn’t lived up to expectations, apply these techniques to the ingredients. Then, if the cake isn’t heavenly, look for a recipe in a trustworthy source with a different balance of ingredients and try again.

*

This model butter cake recipe is perhaps the best you’ll ever eat--three sumptuous chocolate layers. To mix a non-chocolate butter cake, simply leave out the chocolate. For a two-layer cake, just use two thirds of the ingredients. Remember that butter cakes should be served within 12 hours of baking.

OLD-FASHIONED MILK CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH MILK CHOCOLATE FROSTING

3 1/2 cups sifted cake flour

1/2 tablespoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 tablespoon salt

6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped into 1- to 2-inch pieces

1 cup water

1 cup unsalted butter, softened to consistency of mayonnaise

2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup light-brown sugar, lumps crushed, packed

1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla

6 extra-large eggs, warmed in shells

1 cup buttermilk or soured milk (set 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice at bottom of measure and fill with sweet milk, let clabber), at room temperature

Milk Chocolate Frosting

Unsprayed or silk leaves, such as rose, geranium or strawberry, optional

Sift flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt together in bowl.

In medium heat-proof bowl over (not touching) barely simmering water, melt chocolate in water, stirring occasionally until perfectly smooth. Remove from heat.

In large mixing bowl, beat butter on medium speed until creamy. Continue beating while sprinkling in granulated and brown sugars, 1 tablespoon at time. Add vanilla and beat until very light. Add eggs singly, beating until thoroughly blended after each, then beat until very light and creamy. Blend in chocolate. Add flour in 3 parts by sprinkling over bowl. Alternate with buttermilk in 2 parts. Beat on lowest speed manageable just until each addition disappears. Fold batter with large flexible rubber spatula just until thoroughly blended.

Divide batter among buttered 9-inch round cake pans with bottoms lined with wax paper. Smooth tops, then push batter slightly up against sides. Bake 2 layers on middle oven rack and 1 layer on lower oven rack at 350 degrees. Stagger so top pans are not directly over bottom pan. Bake until wood pick emerges clean from center of cake, 30 to 35 minutes.

Cool in pans on racks 15 minutes. Then turn out onto racks, top sides up, to cool completely.

Up to 6 hours before serving, set thickest layer on platter, bottoms up. Spread with 2/3 cup frosting. Repeat with second layer. Place last layer top side up. Frost top and sides, making decorative sweeps in frosting with knife. Keep cool. Do not refrigerate. Just before serving, wreathe leaves around bottom of platter. Makes 16 servings.

Each serving, with Milk Chocolate Frosting, contains about:

776 calories; 317 mg sodium; 145 mg cholesterol; 37 grams fat; 108 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.72 grams fiber.

Milk Chocolate Frosting

14 ounces milk chocolate

5 cups powdered sugar, sifted if lumpy

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa (not Dutch-processed)

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

7 to 8 tablespoons milk

2 tablespoons vanilla

In medium heat-proof bowl over (not touching) barely simmering water, melt chocolate, stirring occasionally until perfectly smooth. Be careful not to let steam or water touch chocolate. Remove from heat.

In food processor or mixing bowl, blend sugar and cocoa. Melt butter with 7 tablespoons milk at half power in microwave or over low heat. Add hot butter to sugar with chocolate and vanilla. Process or beat until smooth. Do not overprocess. If too thick, beat in remaining tablespoonful hot milk. If too thin, add sugar. Spread at once. Makes 16 servings.

Each serving of frosting contains about:

376 calories; 37 mg sodium; 33 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.41 grams fiber.

*

Chiffon cake, silky with oil instead of shortening or butter, caused a sensation when it was popularized in the ‘40s--it was the first new cake in generations. This cake causes a stir for its exquisite lightness, flavor and charm. The method for beating egg whites in the recipe is to be noted. Chiffon cake may be wrapped airtight and stored on the cool side of room temperature for one day before serving.

LEMON CHIFFON CAKE WITH HONEY GLAZE AND THYME LEAVES

2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

Rounded 1/4 teaspoon salt

3 fluid ounces light flavorless vegetable oil, such as canola or safflower

1/4 cup egg yolks (3 to 4 extra-large), warmed in shells before separating

1/2 cup cool water

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, at room temperature

1 1/4 cups egg whites (8 to 9 extra-large), warmed in shells before separating

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Finely shredded zest 1 lemon

Honey Glaze

Rounded 1 teaspoon herbs such as fresh thyme, mint or chamomile, optional

Into large mixing bowl sift flour, 1 cup sugar, baking powder and salt. Beating on low speed, in slow steady stream, add oil, yolks, water and lemon juice to flour mixture. Beat just until mixture is smooth. Do not overbeat. Set aside.

With clean beaters, beat whites in large mixing bowl at low speed until frothy. Sprinkle over cream of tartar and beat on medium speed until soft peaks form. Beat on high speed while sprinkling in 3 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoon at time. Continue beating just until, when beaters are lifted, peak in bowl holds, then flops.

Add 1/3 whites to yolk mixture and blend in with flat wire whisk or large flexible rubber spatula. Add remaining whites and sprinkle over lemon zest. Fold batter with large flexible rubber spatula just until thoroughly blended.

Smooth batter into buttered 10-inch tube pan, bottom lined with ring of wax paper, gently pushing batter up against tube and sides. Bake in middle of 325-degree oven until wood pick or thin metal skewer emerges clean from center of cake, about 60 minutes.

At once invert pan and stand on feet or hang from neck of bottle until cake is cold. Turn out and wrap.

Up to 6 hours before serving, set cake on rack over baking sheet. Spoon warm Honey Glaze over cake, let dribble down inside center and outside. If desired, sprinkle over leaves. When glaze has cooled, lift cake onto platter. Keep cool. Do not refrigerate. Just before serving, wreathe sprigs around bottom of platter. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Each of 10 servings contains about:

418 calories; 247 mg sodium; 94 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 68 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

Honey Glaze

2/3 cup honey

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup unsalted butter

Finely shredded zest 1 lemon

In small skillet stir honey, sugar, butter and lemon zest together over low heat until butter melts. Cool slightly. Makes about 1 cup.

*

Old-fashioned sponge cake is timeless. Because it can be baked in any number of shapes and b ecause it lends itself to any number of finishes, sponge cake may become the most useful in your repertory. A drift of sifted powdered sugar is all that’s needed to finish sponge cake.

However, you can glaze it with warmed marmalade or jam (perhaps with the addition of a few drops of kirsch or rum). You can split the cake and fill it with preserves. You can slather it with whipped cream or your favorite frosting. Or blend just enough fresh lemon juice into granulated sugar to make it pourable and smooth over this sparkling glaze. Or cloak the cake in chocolate--beat an equal weight of softened, unsalted butter a tablespoon at a time into the melted chocolate, then let the glaze cool until thick enough to spread. Finally, if you have them, a strewing of rose petals would be in keeping.

To cover the cake with glaze or frosting, you’ll need 3 to 4 cups for the tube; 1 1/2 cups for each loaf; 2 1/2 cups for top, sides, and filling for two layers or the top and sides of the oblong; about 2 cups for cupcakes.

Wrapped airtight and set in a cool place (not the refrigerator), this sponge will stay fresh up to five days.

SPONGE CAKE

3/4 cup sifted cake flour

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sifted cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (6 extra-large) egg yolks, warmed in shells before separating

Scant 1/3 cup lukewarm water

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 tablespoon vanilla

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 cup (7 extra-large) egg whites, warmed in shells before separating

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Sifted powdered sugar, optional

Bunch unsprayed rose petals, optional

In bowl sift flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt together.

In bowl beat yolks at high speed until fluffy and creamy. Continue beating while slowly drizzling in water, lemon juice and vanilla. Beat until frothy and increased in volume. Then continue beating while sprinkling in 3/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at time. Beat until, when beaters are lifted, batter mounds up on surface 1 to 2 seconds before sinking. Set aside.

Immediately with clean beaters, beat whites at low speed until frothy. Add cream of tartar and beat on medium speed until soft peaks form. Beat on high speed while sprinkling in 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoon at time. Continue beating just until, when beaters are lifted, peak in bowl holds, then flops.

Add 1/3 whites to yolk mixture and blend in with flat wire whisk or large flexible rubber spatula. Sprinkle flour mixture evenly over yolk mixture and fold until almost completely blended in. Add remaining whites and fold batter with large flexible rubber spatula just until thoroughly blended.

Smooth batter into buttered 10-inch tube pan, 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans, 2 (9-inch) cake pans, 1 (13x9-inch) baking pan (all bottoms lined with waxed paper), or about 24 (2 1/2-inch) cupcake pans lined with cupcake papers. Gently push batter up against sides and tube, if used.

Bake in middle of oven at 350 degrees until wood pick emerges clean from center of cake: 35 to 45 minutes for tube pan, 35 minutes for loaf pans, 30 minutes for baking pan, 20 to 25 minutes for cake pans, 20 to 23 minutes for cupcakes.

At once invert pans. Stand tube pan on feet or hang from neck of bottle. Support loaf, layer, and baking pans by supporting corners with cans. Or cool cake in pans upright on rack. Cool cupcakes in pans on racks. When cake is cold, turn out and wrap.

Up to 2 hours before serving, set cakes on platter, best side up. Sift over powdered sugar or fill and frost as desired. Decorate cake and platter with rose petals. Slice with serrated knife. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains about:

138 calories; 114 mg sodium; 136 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.02 gram fiber.