A Girl, a Pier, a Bowl of Chowder

In the eighth grade, I was madly in love with a girl named Adrienne, though I don’t believe she ever knew it. One day I overheard her telling friends that an older guy had taken her to dinner at Tony’s on the Pier. My heart sank.

Tony’s was way out of my league, a two-story octagonal building with a spire on top that stuck out on the Redondo Beach pier like the Eiffel Tower. Today, after 40 years of business, Tony’s still stands out.

Tony is Tony Trutanich, a San Pedro fisherman who once upon a time sold his wares on the pier. In 1952, he docked in Redondo for good and opened the restaurant. For years, Tony did it all--busboy, waiter, cook. As word spread about the good fish, so did the restaurant. The nearby Tony’s Fishmarket opened in 1969.

People come here to enjoy the view (the more rain and wind the better, as the waves crash on large boulders) and to delve into a menu full of old favorites. Among the appetizers are such veterans as oysters Rockefeller ($7.25), bluepoint oysters ($6.25) and clams casino--chopped clams with bacon, garlic, oregano and Parmesan ($6.95). In addition to the ever-popular clam chowder, there’s a smoked salmon chowder ($3.50).

Seafood also dominates the main course selections. Lobster Thermidor ($22.95) combines chunks of lobster tail meat with a bechamel sauce flavored with white wine, tarragon, shallots and mustard. Though many say the sauce distracts from the pure flavor of lobster, this dish is still one of Tony’s big sellers. Scampi ($17.95) are sauteed in olive oil, garlic and white wine, while the likes of shark ($12.95), sea bass ($15.95) and swordfish ($18.95) get the simple treatment of the grill. The dinners come with soup and salad, and a choice of rice or baked potato.

As for Adrienne, she must have really been impressed. I hear she now lives in Redondo, near the pier.

Tony’s on the Pier is at 210 Fisherman’s Wharf, Redondo Beach. (310) 374-9246. Open Monday 4:30 to 11:30 p.m.; Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 12:30 a.m.; and Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.