Why Fruitcake?

A box of Christmas fruitcake is as easy to buy as a box of Christmas cards. Fruitcakes are available at local supermarkets, at gourmet food shops and through mail-order catalogues.

So why do Christmas cooks feel compelled to bake them?

Perhaps it’s partly hereditary: My mother made one so I’ll make one too. Or maybe it’s simply part of the ritual of the season, like shopping, wrapping and caroling.

Historically, the fruitcake was an ideal winter dessert because the fruit preserved from family orchards and kitchen gardens could be used efficiently in cakes and other desserts such as plum pudding and mincemeat pies. Preserved fruit, glazed and sugared especially for Christmas, was also used to adorn the dessert, the most festive part of the meal.

*

For whatever reason, the Christmas fruitcake remains an icon of the season, and home-baked ones suggest you care about family traditions.

If you hail from an Italian background, you might already know the Milanese specialty dessert, panettone , a light egg-yellow yeast cake studded with raisins and candied fruit peel that’s cooked in a cylindrical cake pan to produce a dome-shaped top.

Another version, certosino , a specialty of the Carthusian monks of Bologna, uses honey and bitter chocolate in addition to the candied fruit, almonds and pine nuts.

A Danish Christmas fruit loaf, julekage , like panettone and German stollen , uses yeast to produce a lighter version.

*

Although most of the yeast varieties don’t need to be baked as early, those I prefer can be baked a month or more in advance of Christmas, and when the fruit is plumped up with Irish whiskey or stout, they’re pleasant reminders of my Irish heritage. Early baking not only lets the cakes improve with age but signals that the countdown to the holiday season has officially begun. But for those of you getting a late start, I’ve included a boiled fruitcake that can be eaten within days of being made.

All of these cakes can be easily adapted for gift-giving or individual use by baking in disposable 5 3/4x3 1/2-inch foil loaf tins. Reduce the cooking time by 15 to 20 minutes and test with a skewer, which should come out clean.

*

An interesting “boiled” version of this cake comes from Northern Ireland and includes a festive and unusual addition of crushed pineapple and Irish whiskey.

BOILED FRUITCAKE WITH IRISH WHISKEY 2 cups crushed pineapple with juice 1/2 cup butter 1/2 cup brown sugar, packed 1 cup golden raisins 1/2 cup whole candied cherries 1/2 cup mixed candied fruit 1/2 cup self-rising flour 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon Mixed Spice 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 eggs, beaten 1/4 cup Irish whiskey

Combine pineapple and juice, butter, brown sugar, golden raisins, cherries and candied fruit in medium saucepan. Bring to boil. Boil 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and cool completely.

Mix together flours, Mixed Spice and baking soda. Stir in eggs. Add to fruit mixture. Stir to blend thoroughly. Turn batter into 8-inch round baking pan, greased and lined with wax paper. Bake at 325 degrees 1 1/2 hours. Test with skewer, which should come out clean.

When cake is done, remove to rack. While cake is still warm, pierce top with skewer in several places and spoon whiskey over cake. Cool thoroughly. Wrap first in plastic wrap, then with foil. Cake can be eaten within 2 to 3 days of baking, or it may be frozen. Makes 10 servings.

*

Mixed Spice is not generally available in the United States, but the following mix is close substitute.

Mixed Spice 1 teaspoon whole allspice 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces 1 tablespoon grated nutmeg 2 teaspoons ground ginger

Grind together whole allspice, coriander seeds, whole cloves and cinnamon stick pieces with mortar and pestle or food processor or blender. Add grated nutmeg and ground ginger. Mix thoroughly. Makes about 1/4 cup.

IRISH WHISKEY CHRISTMAS CAKE 1 1/2 cups currants 1 cup golden raisins 1/2 cup raisins 1/4 cup candied cherries 1/4 cup mixed candied fruit 1/3 cup chopped almonds Juice and grated zest 1 lemon 2 teaspoons Mixed Spice 1 cup Irish whiskey 1 cup butter 1 cup brown sugar, packed 5 large eggs 1 1/3 cups flour, sifted

Day before making cake, soak currants, golden raisins, raisins, cherries, mixed candied fruit, almonds, lemon juice and zest and Mixed Spice in bowl with 1/2 cup whiskey.

Next day, cream butter and brown sugar in bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at time, beating each in thoroughly and adding little flour with every egg. Fold in soaked fruit. Stir to blend.

Turn batter into 9-inch round or 8-inch-square pan greased and lined with wax paper. Bake at 275 degrees 2 hours or until cake is firm to touch.

Cool on rack 30 minutes. When cake is cooled, pierce top with skewer in several places. Pour remaining 1/2 cup whiskey over top. Wrap cake first in plastic wrap, then with foil. Store at least several weeks to allow cake to mature. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

IRISH STOUT CHRISTMAS CAKE 1 cup butter 1 cup brown sugar, packed 4 eggs, lightly beaten 1 1/4 cups flour 2 teaspoons Mixed Spice 1 cup raisins 1 cup golden raisins 1/4 cup mixed candied fruit 1/2 cup chopped walnuts 3/4 cup stout

In bowl cream together butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in eggs, 1 by 1.

Sift together flour and Mixed Spice. Fold into egg mixture. Add raisins, golden raisins, mixed candied fruit and walnuts. Mix well. Stir in 1/4 cup stout and mix to soft consistency. Turn into 8-inch cake pan, greased and lined with wax paper. Bake at 325 degrees 1 hour. Reduce temperature to 300 degrees and bake 1 1/2 hours longer.

Place cake on rack to cool thoroughly. When cooled, remove from pan and place upside down on plate. Pierce base of cake in several places with skewer. Spoon over remaining 1/2 cup stout. Wrap cake in plastic wrap, then foil. Store cake at least 1 week before eating. Cake may be kept months when tightly wrapped. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

WHITE FRUITCAKE 1 cup whole candied red cherries 1 cup whole candied green cherries 1 cup golden raisins 1 cup mixed candied fruit 1 cup currants 2 cups flour 3/4 cup butter 1 cup sugar 5 eggs 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon Mixed Spice

Place candied cherries, raisins, mixed candied fruit and currants in medium bowl. Mix in 1/4 cup flour.

Beat together butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at time, beating well after each addition.

Combine baking soda, salt and Mixed Spice. Stir into butter mixture. Stir in fruit mixture. Turn batter into greased and floured 10-inch tube pan. Bake at 300 degrees 60 to 75 minutes. Test with skewer, which should come out clean.

When cake is done, remove to rack and cool at least 10 minutes. Remove from pan and cool completely. Wrap first in plastic wrap, then with foil. Refrigerate up to 6 weeks. Makes 10 to 12 servings.