CLUB REVIEW : At Miceli’s in Hollywood, a Refreshing Lack of Attitude

When venturing into one of Hollywood’s “in” clubs for the first time, the seasoned Southlander knows to expect less-than-gracious treatment. While a sea of well-groomed bodies pushes past you in a cramped entryway, you feel adrift in a foreign land--the only patron who doesn’t know the secret handshake. After an hour or so, the maitre d’ offers a little table by the kitchen, with no waiters for miles.

Perhaps this is why discovering Miceli’s is cause to celebrate. The first time you enter the venerable supper club, the staff treats you like a million bucks. The philosophy is born out of the venue’s humble beginnings: Miceli’s was the first pizzeria in Hollywood to display its pie-makers in the windows.

More than 45 years later, Miceli’s offers one of Hollywood’s most delightful nights out. Not only is it reportedly Hollywood’s oldest still-in-the-family restaurant--original owners Carmen and Sylvia Miceli (71 and 64, respectively) are aided by their three sons and a bevy of brothers--but the staff is also composed of bartenders, waiters and hosts who can carry a tray as well as a tune.

The four-level establishment features live music nightly, highlighted by a team that serves up heapings of Sinatra and Puccini along with Miceli’s pasta. Sunday evenings, jazz trumpeter Bill Berry’s quartet, featuring vocalist Jay Salerno, makes the decades melt away. All this without a cover charge, drink minimum or humiliation.

* Miceli’s, 1646 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood . All ages, no cover . (213) 466-3438.