Georgia's former chef David Danhi has traded in Southern grits and greens for something he calls California regional cooking at Trilogy, a new West Los Angeles restaurant where he is partner and executive chef.
His menu here reads like a sporadic atlas of California: Gilroy garlic, Santa Cruz artichoke saute, local thresher shark, California striped bass. And hey, for dessert, there's Golden State poppy seed cake and California Dreamin', a madcap concoction of sliced bananas with toasted walnuts, rosemary honey, goat cheese, chopped pistachios, vanilla-poached apricots and walnut wheat shortbread cookies--whew!
There's a ceremonial firepit in the patio for California outdoor dining, a historic rosewood bar salvaged from the Beverly Wilshire. Painted angels in sweeping robes hover while you dine on sweetened coconut beer-battered shrimp with blood orange and horseradish dipping sauce.
It's a long long way from Georgia.
* Trilogy, 2214 Stoner Ave. (a half-block south of Olympic Boulevard between Barrington Avenue and Bundy Drive), West Los Angeles. (310) 477-2844. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday and for lunch Monday through Friday. Valet parking. Major credit cards accepted. Appetizers $6.50-$9; entrees $12.50-$19.