The Tamale Teacher

Amalia Ruiz Clark knows better than most that tamales aren’t just for Christmas but for any occasion that merits a feast.

Clark is a top tamale maker, and, at 78, she’s had years of experience. Years ago, Clark made tamales from scratch, cooking and grinding the dried corn, then whipping the masa by hand until light. Today, she may beat the dough in a heavy-duty mixer, simmer the filling in a slow cooker and tell her students that it’s all right to use instant masa.

Clark, of Oracle, Ariz., teaches regularly in Tucson. She has also taught locally in La Canada, where a married daughter lives.

Those who can’t get to her classes can still learn to make tamales the way Clark does. Almost 20 years ago, she wrote a little cookbook, “Special Mexican Dishes,” filled with the homey Sonoran recipes that she learned from her parents.

*

Years passed. The publisher retired; the book disappeared. Now it’s back, revived by Clark’s son, Tom. This revised and enlarged edition follows the simple format of the first book. The recipes, clear and easy to follow, are based on supermarket ingredients.

Clark’s recipe for red chile tamales, for instance, is “the easiest recipe you can get,” she says. Once the components-- masa , chiles, spices, meat, cornhusks--are assembled, the procedures are straightforward. And the tamales are immeasurably better than those you get in restaurants, which are often dry, according to Clark.

The recipe, handed down from her mother, is typically Sonoran. The filling calls for beef, but Clark prefers pork because it is more tender. The possibilities don’t stop there, though. Clark encourages students to stuff tamales with anything from vegetables to leftover cooked turkey breast. “Don’t think that you cannot create,” she says. “Don’t be afraid to try things.”

Clark’s book includes sweet bean tamales that are also typically Sonoran. For the filling, mashed cooked beans are combined with panocha (Mexican-style brown sugar, also spelled piloncillo ), cinnamon, cloves and raisins. Clark makes these tamales half the size of meat tamales, just right for a snack with a cup of coffee.

*

Fresh corn tamales are in the book too. Clark’s recipe calls for zucchini in addition to corn kernels. Sometimes corn is a little dry. The zucchini makes the tamales moist and tender, she explains.

If regular tamales are too time-consuming, you can always make a tamale pie. Clark tells how to make both styles with either fresh or instant masa. A niece who moved to Missouri, where fresh masa was not available, prompted Clark to experiment with the dried version. Fresh masa is best for tamale pie if it is served the day it is made, she says. Instant masa makes the crust more crisp.

Clark objects to lumping tamales with fast foods. “Tamales are very personal,” she says. “They’re very special. They’re for special guests.”

AMALIA’S RED CHILE TAMALES

(Tamales de Chile con Carne)

1 1/2 pounds lard

1 tablespoon salt

5 pounds fresh masa for tamales

2 to 3 cups cold water

1 1/2 pounds corn husks

2 quarts Chile con Carne

Whip lard and salt in heavy-duty electric mixer until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add masa gradually, alternating with water until all masa and about 2 cups water are used. Beat until fluffy. Test by placing small sample of mixture in glass of water. If sample floats, masa is ready. If masa is too dry, add enough water to bring to spreading consistency. Set aside.

Soak corn husks in hot water 10 minutes, until flexible. Rinse and drain. Select large husks for tamales. Spread about 1 heaping tablespoon masa on broad end of corn husk, spreading from edge of 1 side to other and about half-way up. Place 2 heaping tablespoons Chile con Carne in center. Roll sides of husk together so that edges overlap. Bend narrow end toward tamale. Pinch open edges together.

To cook 2 dozen tamales, crumple piece of foil to size of 1 cup and place in center of large pot. Add 2 cups water. Carefully place tamales around foil, open-end-up, making sure husk flap is against foil. Arrange in pyramid fashion. When all tamales are in pot, cover tightly and steam 40 minutes. Uncooked tamales can be frozen. To cook, do not thaw. Steam 1 hour 20 minutes. Makes 4 1/2 dozen tamales.

Each serving contains about:

326 calories; 278 mg sodium; 26 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

Chile Con Carne

4 pounds boneless chuck roast or pork roast (or 2 pounds of each)

2 1/2 quarts water

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons shortening

3 tablespoons flour, optional

6 cups Prepared Red Chile Sauce

Place meat and water in large kettle. Add salt and garlic. Cover and bring to boil. Cook at low heat 3 to 3 1/2 hours or until meat is tender. Remove meat from broth and allow to cool. Cut into bite-size pieces and set aside.

Heat shortening in large saucepan. Add flour, if thicker sauce is desired, and brown lightly. Add Prepared Red Chile Sauce and bring to boil. Simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add meat to chile sauce and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Allow to cool. Refrigerate until ready to use or freeze. Makes 2 quarts, enough for about 4 dozen tamales.

Each 1/2-cup serving contains about:

163 calories; 495 mg sodium; 49 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

Prepared Red Chile Sauce

12 dry red California chiles, or combination California and New Mexico chiles

1 1/2 quarts boiling water

1 clove garlic

6 tablespoons lard or shortening

6 tablespoons flour

1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Remove stems and seeds from chiles. Rinse in cold water. Then soak in boiling water in covered pot 20 minutes. Remove chiles, reserving water. Grind chiles and garlic in blender to make paste. Add water gradually until all is used. To make smoother sauce, put through sieve. Store in refrigerator or freezer until needed.

Heat lard in large saucepan. Add flour, mix quickly and cook until browned. Add chile puree, garlic powder and salt. Simmer 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Makes 1 1/2 quarts.

Each 1/4-cup serving contains about:

36 calories; 147 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

TAMALE PIE WITH INSTANT MASA

1 cup shortening

3 cups instant masa

3 1/4 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

1 quart Chile con Carne

1/2 cup pitted green olives

Place shortening in bowl and beat until fluffy. Add masa, water and salt. Beat until fluffy. Test by placing small sample of mixture in glass of water. If sample floats, masa is ready. Divide masa into 4 equal portions. Grease 2 (9-inch) pie plates.

Spread 1/4 of masa in 1 pie plate to form shell. Place 2 cups Chile con Carne in shell and spread evenly. Sprinkle 1/4 cup olives over filling. Spread 1/4 masa over filling to form top crust. Repeat with remaining ingredients to make second pie. Bake at 400 degrees 30 minutes, until crust is golden brown. Makes 2 pies, each pie 4 to 6 servings.

Each of 8 servings contains about:

561 calories; 817 mg sodium; 49 mg cholesterol; 38 grams fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 0.67 gram fiber.

Note : Uncooked pies may be frozen. To bake, do not thaw. Bake until crust is golden brown.

SWEET BEAN TAMALES

2/3 cup lard

2 tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 pounds fresh masa for tamales

1 cup water

Corn husks

Sweet Bean Filling

Whip lard, sugar and salt in electric mixer until fluffy. Add masa gradually, alternating with water. Beat until fluffy. Test by placing small sample of mixture in glass of water. If sample floats, masa is ready.

Soak corn husks in hot water 10 minutes, until flexible. Rinse and drain. To make small tamales, place 1 tablespoon masa on broad end of husk and spread to each side. Place 1 heaping tablespoon bean mixture in center. Fold sides of husk to cover filling with edges overlapping. Fold pointed end toward tamale. Pinch open ends together. Place cup-size wad of foil in large kettle. Add 2 cups water. Arrange tamales in pyramid, open-end-up, folded end place against foil to hold shut. Steam, covered, 40 minutes. Makes 18 to 24 tamales.

Each of 18 tamales contains about:

380 calories; 202 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 62 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.39 gram fiber.

Sweet Bean Filling

1 quart cooked pinto beans, drained

1/4 cup lard

1 cup crushed panocha (Mexican brown sugar) or dark-brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

2 cups raisins, soaked in hot water 1/2 hour

Mash drained beans. Heat lard in skillet. Add beans, panocha, cinnamon, cloves and drained raisins. Simmer 15 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent beans from burning. Cool before using.

Variation:

Add 1 cup pecan pieces to bean mixture.

* Food styling by Donna Deane and Mayi Brady