Stars Come Out One Last Time to Bid Farewell to Chasen’s : Landmarks: After 58 years, the final ‘hobo steaks’ and chili are served at one of Hollywood’s grand hangouts.

It was, certainly, a bittersweet gathering. But the closing of Chasen’s had more old-Hollywood style, and more stars, than the openings of most restaurants.

One of the very last of the grand hangouts of Hollywood’s big-drinking, meat-eating golden era--with regulars that once included Alfred Hitchcock, W.C. Fields and Humphrey Bogart--Chasen’s mixed its last martini and salted its final “hobo steak” Saturday after 58 years.

More than 400 producers, directors, actors and other industry types were at the West Hollywood eatery to say a nostalgic goodby.

“Please tell me it’s April Fools,” said actress Jennifer Jones Simon.

With the sweet spice smell of its famous chili--never listed on the menu--lingering in the evening air, Hollywood figures representing several generations swapped stories of the old days: when James Thurber, late one night, covered the bathroom walls with drawings and a well-meaning maid washed them off; when Ronald Reagan proposed to his wife in Booth No. 2, and when Howard Hughes used to haunt the restaurant into the wee hours.

“It’s like when they tear down a famous theater--history goes with it,” said Monte Hall, the former game show host. “Nobody likes to see the end of an era.”

The restaurant was founded in 1936 by vaudeville actor and comedian Dave Chasen with $3,500 borrowed from his friend Harold Ross, the founding editor of the New Yorker magazine. It opened for business as Chasen’s Southern Pit Barbecue at Beverly Boulevard and Doheny Drive, serving up chili and spareribs at its six tables and counter.

Exiled New York writers, including Thurber, Robert Benchley, Charles MacArthur and Dorothy Parker came first. And a pantheon of Hollywood celebrities made the place their own: Frank Capra, Jimmy Cagney, Greta Garbo and Bing Crosby.

Reagan, Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra are among those who continued to patronize the restaurant in recent years, even as a younger, more fickle Hollywood migrated to new hot spots. A private back entrance was built to accommodate Reagan when he was President.

Arthur Hiller, president of the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences, ventured a guess as to why Chasen’s could not lure a new generation of stars. “Maybe it wasn’t noisy enough,” he said.

Although the former President, who is suffering from Alzheimer’s disease, did not attend Saturday night, Ronald Clint, the restaurant’s general manager, said he received a call from Nancy Reagan. She “just called to say goodby to me and all of our help,” Clint said.

Others seemed almost angry at the passing of an era.

“Europe would never let this happen,” record producer Quincy Jones said. “It’s so ridiculous. It just blows me away. I’ll be glad when we learn how to respect our heritage and history.”

For many, Saturday was a night to reflect. “I’ve been coming here since I was 11 years old,” said Los Angeles attorney Howard Weitzman. “My grandpa took me here. We had our wedding here.”

Among other regulars on hand Saturday were MCA Chairman Lew Wasserman, producer Freddie Fields and Art Linkletter.

“I must have been 8 or 9 when I started coming here once a week for dinner,” said producer Richard Zanuck. “Dave (Chasen) used to come by and do magic tricks for my kids. I celebrated my birthdays, my kids’ birthdays, my parents’ birthdays here. But everything comes to a conclusion.”