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Morton’s of Chicago Steaks Its Territory in South Coast Plaza Village

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<i> Benjamin Epstein is a free-lance writer who regularly contributes to the Times Orange County. Information for this column can be faxed to (714) 966-7790. Or phone (714) 966-7700. </i>

No matter how you cut it, the three-pound porterhouse-- not to mention a side of asparagus with stems “a nickel in diameter”--still has its fans. Morton’s of Chicago, The Steakhouse has been filling dinner plates in Orange County since last week, lunch plates since Monday.

It’s just under $30 for that porterhouse, but nobody’s complaining. The first Morton’s opened 17 years ago, and South Coast Plaza Village marks its 30th location. The lights are low, LeRoy Neiman serigraphs hang on the cherrywood-paneled walls, the booths are leather-like and the bar offers 40 different martinis.

Beef, lamb and veal cuts range from $20 to $30. Dinner entrees also include lemon oregano chicken ($15.95) and a fish of the day ($17.95). At lunch, beef options range from a sirloin burger ($7.95) to New York strip sirloin ($17.95); salads (including a beefsteak tomato version) start at $3.95. (According to general manager Jason Clow, the lunch menu is being fine-tuned to local tastes and will be finalized next month.)

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The USDA prime aged beef continues to be shipped from the restaurant’s original Midwest suppliers. Morton’s is the home of the talking menu: In an elaborate show-and-tell, the staff describes each item in detail. And you can watch food being prepared in the exhibition kitchen.

Open for dinner 5:30 to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday. Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.

1661 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana. (714) 444-4834.

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Toga! Toga! Toga! Venus Restaurant celebrates its grand opening at the Spa at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa on Saturday at 7 p.m. with a toga party to benefit Orange Pulp, an auxiliary of the American Red Cross. It’s $35 in advance, $40 at the door includes live band, dancing, best toga contest and samplings from the menu. . . . D.P.’s Pub & Grill in Newport Beach announces Monday Micro Tastings from 7 to 9 p.m. It’s $3.75 per pint, but customers get to keep the logo-imprinted microbrewery glass; refills are $2.75. A microbrewery representative will be on hand to discuss brew styles and philosophies. April 10, Widmer Brewing Co.; April 17, Pete’s Brewing Co., and April 24, Dock Street.

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Spring cleaning? Tutto Mare and John Dominis, both in Newport Beach, have unveiled new menus. At Tutto Mare, dishes include garganelli con broccoletti e arselle (curly pasta with broccoli, leeks, pesto and baby clams); at John Dominis, grilled quail with a Maine lobster tail wrapped in hickory smoked bacon and glazed with cilantro chili sauce.

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