Slatkin Brings His Idea of Culinary Fusion to Hermosa

David Slatkin’s menu at Descanso in Hermosa Beach, where he was opening chef, was a wild and woolly collection of spicy, tropical dishes from all over the world. Even though it was their idea, owners Michael Franks and Robert Bell quickly reined in the menu: Their customers were less than thrilled with such exotic fare. And rather than cook what didn’t interest him, the young chef decided to part ways with the South Bay entrepreneurs.

Now Slatkin’s got his own, much smaller Hermosa Beach restaurant, South Bay Fusion. We’re not talking nuclear fusion, but the culinary sort--the kind that intrigued the young CIA (Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.) graduate when he cooked at Yuca, a hot Cuban restaurant in Coral Gables. He likes bold flavors, startling combinations of ingredients, wacky presentations. Question is whether potato and sweet tuber fritters, lobster crab cakes or charred rare tuna with beet wasabi cream and black rice will go over with the beachside burger crowd. He only needs 60 culinary adventurers to fill his spare, new restaurant each night.

* South Bay Fusion, 934 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach. (310) 376-9300. Open for dinner Tuesdays through Sundays. Major credit cards accepted. Parking in underground lot. Beer and wine. Appetizers $4.50-$8.50; entrees $13.40-$16.50; five-course tasting menu $28.