A Dinner Party Survival Guide : Frisco <i> Frico</i>

They say never invite more than eight, but I always do.

--MARION CUNNINGHAM

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A frico is a disk of fried Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese--it looks like a potato chip about six inches round, molded in the semi-tubular shape of a Mediterranean roof tile. This crisp, appetizing, low-calorie snack is terrific by itself or with salads or minestrone. It’s a perfect dinner party hors d’oeuvre to serve with drinks before your guests sit down to the main event.

I got this recipe from Jim Nassikas, of the Stanford Court Hotel in San Francisco. He in turn learned the method from the chef at a small restaurant, La Sufida, in the village of Cormons, in the Friuli region of Northern Italy. Cormons is famous for its frico.

It takes only one ingredient to make a frico , the cheese, so the most important step is to buy a good Parmigiano-Reggiano. When shopping, look for a creamy beige-colored cheese, with a deeper beige rind. If the rind is grayish with the gray running into the cheese, don’t buy it--it’s over the hill. Parmigiano-Reggiano is expensive, but half a pound, grated, makes about 1 1/2 cups, or enough for about 10 fricos .

FRICO

1/2 pound Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, to equal 1 1/2 cups grated

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* Cut cheese into domino-sized pieces. Put few at time into food processor. Process, pulsing, until texture is mixture of crumbs and lentil-sized lumps.

* Sprinkle about 2 1/2 tablespoons of cheese over bottom of non-stick skillet and shake from side to side and back and forth to spread cheese. Place skillet over medium heat until cheese melts, looks shiny and begins to develop pale-golden color around edges, about 1 1/2 minutes.

* Quickly slide small, pliable metal spatula under edge of frico. If it hangs together, lift to inspect underside. If underside is golden, gently use spatula to lift frico out of skillet. Drape over rolling pin (secured so that it won’t roll) and gently pat sides so frico will be curved like roof tile. If not golden, remove skillet from heat and let frico set 1 minute, then proceed as above. Continue until all cheese is used.

* When fricos are cool and crisp, store in airtight container until serving time.

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Makes 10 fricos.

Each frico contains about:

89 calories; 363 mg sodium; 15 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0 fiber.

SMASHED RADISHES

Whenever my friend Sharon Kramis calls, we swap recipes. Her latest, smashed radishes, is another “couldn’t be simpler” appetizer. Serve this with frico for a light lunch.

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15 radishes

Salt

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon sesame seed oil

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Place 1 radish on cutting board and hit just hard enough with wooden mallet or bottom of skillet to break, but not hard enough to crush into pieces. Place in bowl and repeat with remaining radishes. Salt well.

Mix soy, vinegar, sugar and sesame oil in bowl. Pour marinade over radishes. Chill until serving time.

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Makes 15 smashed radishes or 2 servings.

Each serving contains about:

49 calories; 806 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.18 gram fiber,