BOOK REVIEW HOLIDAY SPECIAL SECTION : ESSENCE: 25 Years Celebrating Black Women, <i> edited by Patricia Mignon Hinds, text by Audrey Edwards, introduction by Susan L. Taylor, foreword by Maya Angelou (Harry N. Abrams: $35; 175 pp.)</i>

This elegant work is not just another pretty face in the panoply of this season’s gift books on beauty. The oversized edition crowns years of boldness, originality and perseverance and chronicles Essence magazine’s historical entry into the field. Editor-in-Chief Susan L. Taylor’s introduction guides the reader through the many transformations, transitions and editors the magazine experienced over the past quarter-century. Most of these adjustments were made during the early ‘70s, when the new magazine frequently teetered on the precipice of financial ruin. Even when friends stepped forward (as was the case when Playboy invested $250,000), their motives were questioned and rumors of takeover were abundant.

Not everyone was convinced this new venue was good for African American women. The mainstream media were cautious and suspicious. Time magazine predicted African American women would “. . . get tired of being reminded of the longstanding, dehumanizing rape of the black woman in America.” Others perceived the magazine as militant. But the founders--Jonathan Blount, Clarence O. Smith, Ed Lewis and Cecil Hollingsworth--capitalized on several untapped advantages: The magazine would be multifaceted, not focused solely on beauty issues; it would also be a political, social and civil rights advocate. These premises gave a voice to a constituency that had long been refused one. And the results were explosive: African American women discovered they were not only visible and vocal but beautiful to boot--and they have not quieted since. Today, with an enviable readership of 20 million, Essence is expanding its territory to other countries.

The magazine’s foundation was strengthened and supported by regular articles and features by most of the premiere experts and professionals in the African American community: Eleanor Holmes-Norton, Rosa Parks, Dr. Mae Jemison, Ntozake Shange and the eternal wisdom of the Delany sisters. Some of those veterans, keeping faith with the magazine, return here with words of inspiration and homespun truths.

Essence built its reputation as a fashion magazine, with stunning photographs of international models like Mounia, Iman, Naomi Sims and Naomi Campbell. But there are also outstanding portraits of activists, celebrities and ordinary individuals who have made a difference. The editors were wise enough to recognize that beauty also emanates from the inside out, so the strength of Maxine Waters, Shirley Chisholm and Marian Wright Edelman have never been neglected.

One can not think of Essence’s history without paying tribute to the young fashion designers who made (and continue to make) it a world-renowned leader. Willie Smith, Patrick Kelley, Scott Barrie and others stormed the Paris runways. Sadly, we can’t think of them without the pall of AIDS that eclipsed so many of their careers. But here they are, brilliant and vibrant, thankfully remembered and recorded in all their glory.

Here’s to Essence--for another 25 years!