Wine Picks

1994 Pacific Rim Riesling ($7)--Bonny Doon Vineyard, owned by brilliant stylist Randall Grahm, is getting to be better known for its unusual varietal wines and oddly named wines (Le Cigare Volant, to name just one) than its mainstream wines.

And it’s true that Grahm has created laughter for many of his wines and that his offbeat brand of humor sells. But occasionally he puts out an impeccable a wine that gets little attention because of, for once, a plain package.

This is an example. It is Riesling of a high order, floral, appley and spiced, with a delicate alcohol level, plenty of acidity and an aftertaste that is like Chardonnay. There is no oak here to confuse the flavors, and the aromatics carry through into the taste.

If more winemakers made Riesling this dry, this fragrant and this succulent, it wouldn’t be a grape on the decline.