Is Tofu Ready for the Big Leagues?

Tofu, the spongy off-white soybean cake that spells B-O-R-I-N-G for so many people, is about get a marketing make-over. Slick packaging, toll-free consumer hotlines, new products and a blitz of cookbooks created by chefs rather than earnest vegetarian activists are some of the strategies tofu companies plan to use as they attempt to bring tofu into the mainstream.

In the supermarket you can already find tofu as salad dressing, mayonnaise, veggie-burger, frozen dessert, hot dog, spicy meatless sausage, dairy-free yogurt and sour cream replacement, Mexican-flavored snack spread and a substitute for bacon. There are flavoring packets that will turn the soy curd cake into chocolate pudding, an eggless breakfast “scramble” seasoned with Italian herbs, a taco filling or a pizza topping.

Within the next year, new cookbooks will extract tofu entirely from its original Asian context. It will show up in brownies, paella, red flannel hash and cappuccino pie. Even the newest edition of “Joy of Cooking,” still in the writing phase, will feature tofu recipes.

Packaging is going to undergo a revolution of bold colors and graphics. And those dreadful sloshy refrigerated containers will give way to stylish cubes of shelf-stable packaging.

But some advertising and marketing professionals say that’s not enough.

“Tofu is a joke,” says Adam Morgan, an advertising executive with TBWA Chiat/Day who specializes in food products, with accounts such as Ragu spaghetti sauce and Unilever Foods. “Tofu is a sissy. Bland, white, boring. It needs to take a stand. Become something. And that name! It’s terrible.”

Tofu goes against the American palate, says Martha Dahlen, who has been teaching classes on Chinese ingredients in Hong Kong for 18 years.

“Very little in American food, except baby food or gelatin, has that texture,” she says.

“Even buying tofu is alien. What else do you buy floating in water? And Americans love convenience. Bean curd is anything but. It’s not an open-and-eat product.”

And tofu threatens some cooks. “I buy tofu,” says Annabelle Stevens, president of Warren Cowan & Associates. “But it just sits there, floating, in my refrigerator. It makes me feel stupid and guilty. What do you do with it? I end up tossing it out.”

Stevens, who also teaches classes in how to market products, agrees with Morgan: changing the name and putting a face on it would help. “Call it something French, like Le Tofu,” she says. “Then stick Wolfgang Puck’s picture on it. It would take off.”

Color is a problem too. “White food is boring but red food isn’t,” Morgan says. “Spaghetti is boring, so is fish. But when you add tomato sauce to pasta, or bread crumbs and paprika to fish, it appeals.”

He faults manufacturers for lack of imagination. “Tofu is a half-finished product. Take it one step further, then sell it. Make it convenient, user-friendly. Sell it already mixed with spices and chiles and sell it as a spread or something you toss with hot pasta. “

Of course, some people think tofu is just fine the way it is. “Trying to make tofu sexy is dishonest,” says William Shurtleff, who brought national attention to tofu when he published “The Book of Tofu” in 1975. “Tofu isn’t sexy. It’s plain, like a pair of old shoes. The more you wear them, the more comfortable they become.”

Winning the masses over is insane, he says. “Most Americans are not open-minded about food. They like what they like and have no interest in trying something else.”

When Morinaga Nutritional Foods Inc. hired Bucher & Russell Advertising of Los Angeles to promote Mori-Nu brand tofu, Susan Bucher started at the bottom. “All people knew was that it was white and Asian,” she says. “Only a few associated it with health.”

Progress has been slow but steady. Over the years, Bucher & Russell has developed point-of-sale coupons, an exercise video and recipe booklets. A newsletter goes out to 7,000 Mori-Nu customers. When the company introduced its fat-reduced “lite” variety in 1993, sales jumped 30% in one year. “We spent millions,” says Tom McReynolds, marketing manager.

Plans for Mori-Nu include a larger package, more colorful packaging and an ad campaign that touts tofu as a staple in American pantries.

Though Mori-Nu distributes nationwide, Hinoichi is the largest manufacturer in this country. It targets Asian communities.

When Don Potter got the advertising account for Hinoichi from House Foods America Corp., the executive launched a cable television cooking show. Far more successful and far-reaching were the radio spots with celebrity endorsements and recipes by chefs, not to mention a toll-free number.

Prospects for sales and product development are pushing Hinoichi forward. Next March, the company vacates its 50,000-square-foot plant in Los Angeles for a facility three times the size in Garden Grove.

“Tofu and soy in general have been helped by good press from the medical community,” says Harry Tanikawa, manager of sales for Hinoichi. “When you see fast-food places such as Panda Express in the shopping malls adding more tofu items to the menu, when you can buy a tofu hot dog at Dodger Stadium, you know tofu has arrived. Consumers are reacting and asking questions.”

Worthington Foods, Inc. has produced meatless products for 59 years, but the company has experienced a sales rush over the past four years in soy-based meat alternative products.

“That category went from nothing four years ago to a $150 million-a-year business,” says Don Burke, executive vice president of sales and marketing.

Its hottest selling items, sold under the Morningstar Farms label, are soy-based breakfast patties, sausage links, garden burgers and spicy black bean burgers. Those products will be joined next January by a breakfast sandwich sausage patty on English muffin or bagel, geared for the fast-food market, “the grab-and-go customer.”

“Attention to tofu has helped. But people who buy our products are the masses, people who want to cut down a little on meat and saturated fat. Most are aging baby boomers who want taste, convenience and a health benefit.”

Let the tofu age begin.

RED FLANNEL HASH

If you have a leftover cooked Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn or other golden potato on hand, plus a can of beets, this is an easy dish to put together. Smoky-tasting tempeh bacon is what makes the recipe, from Dana Jacobi’s “The Natural Kitchen: Soy!” (Prima Publishing) to be published in mid-October, work. Its meaty flavors are perfect in place of corned beef. This dish can be refrigerated or frozen and reheated in the oven. It will not be crisp-crusted but will taste delicious.

2 tablespoons canola oil

2/3 cup finely chopped onions

1 cup freshly boiled or canned beets, cut in 1/2-inch dice

4 slices tempeh bacon, chopped (about 1/2 cup)

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon dried, crumbled

1 potato, boiled, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 tablespoons catsup

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and saute until lightly browned, about 2 minutes, stirring often.

Mix in beets, tempeh bacon, rosemary and potato and stir 1 to 2 minutes. Potato will break down slightly, mixing with other ingredients; this helps bind hash together.

Mix in catsup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Press hash into 1-inch-thick layer and cook until brown and crusty on bottom, about 5 minutes, reducing heat if necessary.

Turn hash over (hash will break up, which is fine; browned bits give more flavor). Press hash back into 1-inch layer and cook to brown bottom, about 5 minutes.

Remove pan from heat and invert onto plate. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

142 calories; 255 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.90 grams fiber.

MUSHROOM SCRAMBLER

Mayi Brady, a cook in The Times Test Kitchen, devised this scrambler recipe when other similar recipes we tried didn’t satisfy Food section tasters. Adding egg substitute gives the tofu a familiar scrambled egglike coating; Fontina cheese, mushrooms, green onions, garlic and rosemary make the whole thing taste good.

1 (1-pound) package firm tofu

2 teaspoons oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups sliced assorted mushrooms (brown, button and shiitake)

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

2 (4-ounce) containers egg substitute

1/2 cup grated Fontina cheese

Salt, pepper

Drain tofu and crumble into cottage cheese-size pieces.

Heat oil in large skillet and add tofu. Cook over medium-high heat until tofu becomes light golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 3 to 4 minutes more. Add mushrooms and continue to cook until mushrooms begin to brown, then add green onions and rosemary. Cook 3 to 4 minutes. Add egg substitute and cook just until liquid begins to set, then add cheese and salt and pepper to taste. Cook just until cheese begins to melt. Do not overcook.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

79 calories; 141 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.19 grams fiber.

TOFU-STUFFED FRENCH TOAST

Tasters in The Times Test Kitchen were amazed that tofu-stuffed French toast (from Dana Jacobi’s “The Natural Kitchen: Soy!”) could be so rich and luscious. Semolina bread, sold in some specialized bakeries, would be perfect for this recipe; Italian or French bread works well too. Since the dish freezes well, you can make it ahead and reheat it before serving.

1/4 cup raisins

1/4 golden raisins

1/4 cup currants

1/4 cup diced candied orange peel or candied fruit without cherries

1/2 cup brandy or rum

1 pound loaf semolina, Italian or French bread

1 pound tofu

2 teaspoons grated orange or lemon peel

3 eggs

1 cup plain or vanilla regular soy milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons melted butter, oil or nonstick cooking spray

Maple syrup or powdered sugar, optional

Soak raisins, golden raisins, currants and candied peel in small bowl with brandy for 30 minutes.

Slice bread diagonally into 1-inch slices, discarding ends. Carefully pull center from each slice, leaving about 1/2-inch of bread inside crust. Set aside rings of crusts. Tear centers into 1/2-inch pieces and place in large bowl.

Crumble tofu into bowl with torn bread, breaking tofu into bits size of cottage cheese curd. Drain soaked fruit and add to bowl. Add grated citrus peel.

Beat eggs with soy milk and vanilla extract in another large bowl. Pour half of mixture into bowl with torn bread. Stir with fork until bread is moistened and everything is well combined.

Add 2 or 3 bread rings at a time to remaining egg mixture, turning pieces once, when well moistened.

Meanwhile, heat half of butter in large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Arrange soaked bread rings in pan. Spoon moistened bread and fruit mixture into center of each ring, pressing with back of spoon to pack firmly. Cook until toast is browned on bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and brown second side. Remove to warm platter. Repeat until all bread has been cooked.

Serve at once, accompanied by maple syrup or sprinkled with powdered sugar. Or, cool slices of stuffed toast, wrap tightly in foil and freeze. Reheat in 350-degree oven, wrapped in foil, 15 to 20 minutes.

Variation: Use 1/2 cup each dried blueberries and chopped dried cranberries in place of raisins, currants and candied fruit. Soak in Grand Marnier or Triple Sec.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Each of 8 servings, without syrup or powdered sugar, contains about:

395 calories; 433 mg sodium; 94 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 47 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 0.52 grams fiber.

TOFU SLAW

Times Test Kitchen Director Donna Deane came up with this tofu take on cole slaw. She tosses noodlelike bean curd strips (which are found in most supermarkets and in Asian grocery stores) with red and green cabbage for a tri-color effect. The dressing, made with vinegar, mustard, garlic, mayonnaise and oil is pure American picnic.

1 (6-ounce) package bean curd strips

1 cup shredded green cabbage

1 cup shredded red cabbage

1/2 cup shredded carrots

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh basil

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons mayonnaise

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Salt

Blanch bean curd strips in rapidly boiling water 15 seconds. Drain and rinse.

Toss strips in large bowl with shredded green and red cabbages, carrots, green onions and basil.

In separate small bowl, whisk together garlic, white wine and Sherry vinegars, mustard, mayonnaise and salt. Slowly whisk in oil until thick and creamy. Stir in pepper to taste and season with salt if needed. Toss with bean curd and vegetable mixture.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Each of 6 servings contains about:

141 calories; 386 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.40 grams fiber.

TOFU CITRUS SHAKE

A bite of citrus in this refreshing smoothie made it a hit at the Tofu Festival in downtown Los Angeles this summer.

1 (14-ounce) package soft tofu

1 cup frozen orange juice concentrate

1 teaspoon orange extract

1 teaspoon pineapple extract

3 tablespoons canned crushed pineapple

1 cup crushed ice

Blend tofu, orange juice concentrate, orange extract, pineapple extract and pineapple in blender until smooth. Add ice and blend another 15 to 30 seconds.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

161 calories; 9 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 0.18 grams fiber.

TOFU CHEESECAKE

No, this comes nothing close to a creamy New York-style cheesecake. But if you’re watching your fat, this recipe from Dana Jacobi’s “The Natural Kitchen: Soy!” is a good compromise. Velvety and touched with lemon, it contains far less cholesterol than conventional cheesecake. It is vital that you use soft tofu for the cheesecake; we tried it with firm tofu the first time in The Times Test Kitchen and the results were awful. The arrowroot powder absorbs some of the moisture from the tofu while adding creaminess.

CRUST

1 cup graham cracker crumbs

1/2 cup finely ground almonds

1/4 cup unrefined sugar crystals or sugar

1/4 cup butter or margarine, melted

Combine graham cracker crumbs, ground almonds and sugar in bowl. Blend in butter with fork until mixture clings together when pressed between fingers. Press mixture into bottom of 8-inch springform pan with fingers or back of spoon. Keep working mixture up sides of pan to height of about 1-inch, leaving crust thicker around bottom edge, where sides and bottom of pan meet. Make crust thinner around top edge. Bake at 350 degrees 8 minutes. Cool slightly.

FILLING

1 pound soft tofu

1 pound tofu cream cheese

3/4 cup sugar

2 eggs

4 teaspoons grated lemon peel

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons arrowroot powder

Puree tofu in food processor. Add tofu cream cheese and process to blend. Add sugar and eggs and process to incorporate completely. Blend in lemon juice and vanilla extract. Finally, blend in arrowroot.

Pour filling into prepared crust, filling to within 1/2-inch of top. Bake in center of 350-degree oven 60 minutes. Cake will be golden on top and slightly browned around edges, but still puffed and jiggling in center. Turn off heat but leave cake sitting in oven 60 minutes. Warm cake will still be just soft to touch in center. Cool cake on rack to room temperature. Cover cake lightly with foil and refrigerate 24 hours before serving.

Note: In two separate recipe tests in the Los Angeles Times Test kitchen, tasters preferred the cheesecake served at room temperature. The texture was softer and richer-tasting than when the cake was served chilled.

Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

322 calories; 182 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 0.37 grams fiber.

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Background Tofu comes in three textures. Soft (kinugoshi) tofu, with a custard-like texture, is used in dips, dressings, custard, cheesecake and puddings. Firm tofu, with a medium-dense texture, goes in salads, casseroles, barbecues, soups and recipes requiring that the tofu retain its shape. Extra-firm is used for crumbling, stir-frying and deep-frying. The firm and extra-firm styles simply have more water removed.