San Miguel de Gourmet : Despite gentrification, these restaurants still specialize in local food

This city, often called Mexico’s Disneyland by Yankees, is every traveler’s Mexican Fantasyland--a drop-dead gorgeous colonial hilltop town. The town’s main church, La Parroquia, is the most prominent landmark and can easily be compared to a certain Sleeping Beauty’s Castle, especially when it’s lighted on weekend and holiday evenings.

San Miguel de Allende is so special that the entire town has been designated a national monument by the Mexican government and must preserve its historical, colonial nature by strictly enforced building codes.

Historical sites, cultural activities, night spots, plenty of hotels, great shopping and lots of English speakers have made San Miguel de Allende a renown destination and a popular stay for expatriates from the U.S. Its 6,400-foot elevation keeps temperatures down during the summer, when heat and killer humidity plague Mexico’s tropical resorts.

The tourism boom of recent years has fueled a boom in restaurants, many with an international flavor. At trendy spots, grilled salmon with lime butter is as easy to find as enchiladas. But if you’re sightseeing here or studying Spanish at one of the city’s many language schools, why eat pasta or eggrolls when you can have chicken mole? The following is a list of my favorite dining spots--from luxurious restaurants to street food carts--that feature Mexican food.

While this area isn’t known for a particular regional cuisine, San Miguel de Allende’s tourist trade has brought forth many reliable restaurants, especially in the last 10 years. (As when eating anywhere in Mexico, even though these restaurants claim to use purified water, always be aware that eating raw vegetables, unpeeled fruit and using ice cubes in drinks can be risky.)

Traditionally, la comida is the afternoon meal and begins about 2. It consists of three or four courses and is the day’s big meal for most Mexicans. Dinner is later and lighter than in the U.S. However, the town’s traveler-savvy restaurateurs are also comfortable serving light lunches at noon and full dinners at 7.

(Prices given below are for a full meal for one with a soft drink or glass of wine and tip. Inexpensive: under $8; Moderate: $8 to $20; Expensive: over $20.)

INEXPENSIVE

El Meson de San Jose, Mesones 38; tel. 23-848. Hours: 8 a.m.-10 p.m., daily.

German-born Angelika Merkel’s patio restaurant with its lace-trimmed market umbrellas and shady tree is perfect for a casual grilled chicken sandwich for lunch, with corn flan for dessert. Top choices: the outstanding soups; omelets served with homemade bread; and, if you’re in San Miguel in summer huitlacoche season, try Mexico’s exotic corn fungus packed into quesadillas.

Ole Ole Restaurante, Calle de Loreto 66; tel. 20-896. Hours: 1 p.m.-10 p.m., daily.

After you elbow your way past T-shirt racks, the small restaurant (3 1/2 blocks north of the main square) comes into view. It’s decorated from floor to ceiling with bullfight memorabilia and posters. Top choices: Huge portions of brochettes of marinated beef or chicken with bell peppers and onions ($5 each). The brochette is served over a mound of rice. An equally generous plate of fajitas is the other big seller.

El Rincon del Quiote, Hernandez Macias No. 111; tels. 25-096 and 20-187. Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; closed Monday.

This year-old vegetarian restaurant excels in breakfast waffles, pancakes, granola-yogurt combinations, chilaquiles and Mexican egg dishes. Four soups are offered every day. Squeezed-to-order juices include orange, carrot, apple, beet, pineapple and combinations. Top choice: Homemade mole, which I especially enjoy over cheese enchiladas.

Cafe de la Parroquia, Jesus 11; tel. 23-161. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m., Sunday 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; closed Monday.

Breakfasts are popular at this casual restaurant, as are late lunches on the patio after browsing through the collection of books in English at El Tecolote, the adjoining bookshop. Top choices: French owner Francoise’s omelets, pancakes, French toast, and fabulous tamales served with tomatillo sauce and fresh crema (similar to creme frai^che)--now that’s breakfast! Freshly squeezed juices and good coffee attract throngs of morning regulars.

El Correo, Correo 23 (in front of the post office); tel. 20-151. Hours: 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; closed Wednesday.

Top choices: El Correo is home to a what must be one of the best tortilla soups (sopa Azteca) in Mexico. A chicken-tomato broth is enriched with cheese, avocado slices and crisp tortilla strips. Side bowls of chopped onion, fresh crema and spicy chiles chipotles en adobo (dried and smoked jalapen~o chiles) are for you to add to taste. Tostadas are tops here, and apple fritters are delicious with good rich coffee.

El Ten Ten Pie, Cuna de Allende 21 (corner of Cuadrante); no phone. Hours: noon to midnight daily.

El Ten Ten Pie means, “a little something to keep you on your feet,” and the inexpensive soft tacos do just that. Top choices: Grilled beef with or without melted cheese; pork with chorizo; shredded chicken stewed with onions and tomatoes, and a slightly spicy pumpkinseed pipian are all first rate. Try the delicious salsas, especially a spicy marvel made with peanuts and dried chiles.

Apolo XI, Mesones 43; no phone. Hours: noon to early evening, daily.

Step up to the counter and order carnitas (deep fried pork chunks) by the kilo, plate or morsel. Top choices: Lean pork loin and succulent ribs, with a few pieces of crisp meat thrown in for crunch. After you order, sit in the sky-lighted room with metal card tables and chairs splashed with beer logos. A waiter brings your carnitas with warm tortillas, salsas and fresh lime wedges. Bottles of Sprite round out the feast.

MODERATE

Bugambilia, Hidalgo 42; tel. 20-127. Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., daily.

Mercedes Arteaga Tovar’s restaurant has been presenting traditional Mexican dishes for more than 50 years. A classical guitarist plays in the colonial building’s plant-filled courtyard--perfect for quiet dinners. Top choices: Chiles en nogada; chicken stewed in pulque, the fermented juice of the agave plant; and tinga, shredded pork loin with chorizo and potatoes in a tomato-onion-chipotle chile sauce. A small selection of reasonably priced Mexican wines are offered.

Casablanca, Palma 15; tel. 23-269 (reservations recommended). Hours: 1-9 p.m., Sunday 1-3 p.m.; closed Monday.

Casablanca is San Miguel de Allende’s best view restaurant, high up in Caracol, a residential neighborhood. The lawn is great for restless kids. For a romantic dinner, reserve the table for two on a tiny deck outdoors. Top choices: shrimp dishes, grilled sea bass with a crusted herb coating, pork asada and chicken mole. All entrees are served with rice and mixed vegetables.

La Vendimia, Hidalgo 12; tel. 22-645. Hours: noon-10 p.m. daily, Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m.

Vendimia restaurant’s colonial courtyard is ideal for listening to a classical guitarist in the evenings while sipping margaritas. Top choices: grilled steak or fresh tuna steak with made-at-your-table Caesar salad (a Tijuana invention). An impressive wine list.

Villa Santa Monica Hotel, Baeza 22 (east corner of Juarez Park); tel. 20-427 and 20-451. Hours: breakfast, 8 a.m.-noon; lunch/dinner 1:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. daily.

A stroll through the prettiest park in town and you’re at the Villa Santa Monica Hotel, a colonial hacienda. A bouquet of fresh flowers sits on each of the hotel restaurant’s linen-covered tables in the patio. Top choices: the BLT sandwich for a light lunch, tortilla soup, marinated grilled chicken and steaks.

El Pegaso, Corregidora 6 (across from the post office), tel. 21-351. Hours: 8:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; closed Sunday.

El Pegaso is San Miguel de Allende’s most popular gathering place for travelers from the U.S. If you’re looking for someone, leave word with one of the regulars. The restaurant’s three small rooms are filled all day, especially the room at the entrance with low tables. Top choices: Cheese or chicken enchiladas, chilaquiles (crisp tortillas in red or green chile sauce) and homemade raspberry pie. Daily specials are listed at the door and include international dishes, such as kung pao chicken.

EXPENSIVE

Casa de Sierra Nevada Hotel, Hospicio 35; local telephone, 20-415 (reservations recommended). Hours: breakfast 8 a.m.-11 a.m., lunch 1 p.m.-4 p.m., dinner 7 p.m.-10 p.m. daily.

San Miguel de Allende’s most exclusive hotel is situated in five adjacent colonial mansions two blocks from the town square. Its dining room has a formal feel, especially during winter evenings, when men must wear jackets. The more casual patio is perfect for Sunday afternoon comida or candlelight dinners. Top choices: baby salad greens with grilled shrimp or goat cheese; seafood cakes; Gulf red snapper fillet with herb butter sauce, and a short list of traditional Mexican favorites.

Villa Jacaranda Hotel, Aldama 53; tel. 21-015 or 20-811. Hours: 8 a.m.-10:30 p.m., daily.

The restaurant of the Villa Jacaranda Hotel is a favorite lunch destination. The gazebo is popular for Sunday brunch. Top choices: in summer, try huitlacoche crepes, homemade tomato soup and chiles en nogada (beef with dried fruit and nuts stuffed into a poblano chile, covered with walnut sauce and topped with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds). Villa Jacaranda also offers some of the better seafood dishes in town, such as sea bass in a tomatillo sauce. Live music in the evening.